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2013年9月28日星期六

Flea and Tick Season has Begun

 Tick

For most of the country Spring has finally sprung. With the temperatures rising the fleas and ticks have started coming out. These little blood suckers are out and trying to take a bite out of everything, including me. A couple of weeks ago, I was helping a friend on his farm. We were walking through the edge of the woods planning a fence line. That night I found a tick that was attached to my rear end. My wife pulled it off for me. I of course thought everything was fine, but after a couple of days, the spot started itching like mad and turning red and swelling. Yep, that little bite was infected. My wife finally talked me into going to the doctor and I am now on antibio ticks, ha ha.


Several of the sites that I looked at for tips on avoiding ticks talked about things like getting rid of leaves, keeping lawns cut very short, limiting the amount of shrubs around your yard, and things like that. If you are like me most of these suggestions are not an option. I rake leaves up and put them in either the compost pile or on the garden spot as mulch. I am trying to have as little grass as possible in my yard, but the grass is being replaced by surprise, surprise, other plants like blackberry, blueberry, and fruit trees. These are the very type things that according to the experts should be avoided to keep away ticks. As a result of my choice to try to be more food sovereign  I must turn to a repellent.


Tick Repellent for People


There are several products available for purchase to repel biting insects. The most well known is Deep Woods Off. This can be very effective against mosquitoes, but does only a fair job of protecting against ticks. The active ingredient of Off is DEET (Diethyl-meta-toluamide). Research has shown that DEET can cause seizures, insomnia, radical mood swings, and impaired cognitive function. Seizure likely hood is quite rare.


The second most common commercially available insect repellent is permethrin based. Permethrin is a compound naturally found in chrysanthemums. Studies have shown that permethrin is far superior at repelling ticks than DEET. One huge problem is there is only one company that manufactures a product for human use. The human permethrin product costs about twice as much as the DEET products per ounce. There are several premethrin based veterinary products that are designed for horses that are considerably less expensive. Some people have used the horse products for themselves and their pets. I however do not suggest this practice.


What if you want a more natural way of protecting yourself? There are several essential oils that are purported to repel ticks and fleas. The most common suggestion is to add 10 drops of eucalyptus oil to sunscreen and apply to all exposed areas.  Other recipes for homemade tick repellent include things like lavender oil, geranium oil, lemon balm, citronella, peppermint and pennyroyal.


There are ready to use products available that can be purchased like Repel Lemon Eucalyptus Insect Repellent Pump Spray or Botanical Solutions Tick Guard 4 Oz. Both of these products reviews are pretty good and both are rated for human use. The Botanical Solutions has been used on pets, but according to one of the reviews the scent is so strong that their dog sneezes constantly.


Tick Repellent for Dogs


The most common two insect repellents for pets is Frontline and Advantix .The links I provided are to the product for the big boys, like I have, the 89 to 132 lbs doggies. Frontline and Advantix are very effective against ticks, but around here only works for about 2 1/2 to 3 weeks for fleas. According to a doggie dermatologist, the fleas in this area are developing an immunity to the chemicals in most of the topical treatments. The problem is many of the things made for dogs will only control either fleas or ticks. For example Comfortis can be purchased at your Veterinarian’s office and is incredible at controlling fleas, I have found nothing that even comes close, but it only protects against fleas.


Several sites I have searched actually say to use the same homemade flea and tick repellents as with people only to not mix it as strong with the essential oils. One person said that they use one drop of rose geranium essential on their dog’s collar once a week. There are also ready to use products designed for pets such as  Vet’s Best Natural Flea and Tick Spray, 8-Ounce. Again with this product the reviews are really quite good.


We will always use something to control the fleas on my dog and my families cats and we are going to try some of these essential oil treatments. If you do end up having a tick bite, even if you get the head out, you may have to go to the doctor. I am glad I finally let my wife talk me into going.


Remember to 
Keep It Rural


2013年9月26日星期四

Dog Tick Season

We found our first Dog Tick (sometimes called Wood Tick) of the season this past Saturday. The warm weather has brought them out early this year.


On our property, this has been the only species of tick we have encountered. Fortunately the dog tick does not carry Lyme Disease.




Dog Ticks are about 3/16″ long.



The experts at Michigan State University has this to say about the pests:


Their bites rarely result in serious disease in Michigan, but like other wood ticks, dog ticks are a known carrier of Rocky Mountain spotted fever and tularemia. The cases of Rock Mountain Spotted Fever reported in Michigan have been from primarily southern counties, particularly those located directly north of the Toledo Airport.


Hmmmm… that comment about Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever being found in the counties “directly north of the Toledo Airport” doesn’t give me too much comfort. I guess the lesson to be learned is that you need to check yourself and pets for ticks after spending a day walking or working in an area with tall grass or shrubs.  The ticks crawl up onto tall grass or shrubbery and wait for a likely host to walk by, usually a dog or cat (or raccoon or other wild animal). They don’t use trees for this purpose.


I spend a lot of time outside, sometimes in areas like those described, and do find a tick now and then. The most I’ve ever found on myself at one time was five ticks. That was several years ago. It was a bad tick year and  I spent the whole day working out in an area with tall grass.


If you find the ticks right away, they are easy to remove. The longer they stay on, the harder it is to get them off. The ticks have barbs on their mouth that they use to dig deeper and deeper into your skin until they find blood.  It takes them a few hours before they actually start “sucking blood” so usually you have plenty of time to get them off.


The recommended procedure for removing ticks is to use a pair of tweezers and grab them right at the surface of your skin then lift them straight out without twisting them. Avoid squeezing them to keep their “saliva” from being squirted back into your or your pet’s skin.


If left on too long, they will continue to feed on blood until they get “big and juicy” looking something like a disgusting, brown grape…yuk.  Don’t let them get to that point!  Sometimes you can find a tick starting to swell from feeding on a long-haired dog. This is  because when the ticks are small they are easily hidden under long fur.


Be aware that the ticks are out now and check your pets often.


Bob


2013年9月24日星期二

Brave Tide Foundation » Protect your pets this flea and tick season!

Photo by Lindsay Schroeder



Yesterday one of our Brave Tide ambassadors, Chase the lovable Lab, visited the vet for his annual check-up, where we learned that this year’s flea and tick season is developing into one of the worst in recent years due to warm temperatures emerging earlier this spring.


What can you do to prevent flea and tick infections in your pets?



  1. Talk to your veterinarian about being proactive through the use of preventative medications. Be sure your pet’s medication is appropriate for its weight and species. Be consistent in applying the medication as prescribed.

  2. Ensure your pets are well groomed, and check their bodies for ticks and fleas after spending time outdoors.

  3. Keep your pets and family members out of long grass and areas where wild animals may spread fleas and ticks, and take measures to keep rodents and other wildlife from entering your family’s space.

  4. Consult the experts if you believe your home has been infested so steps can be taken to properly eradicate the pests.


Flea season is influenced by weather conditions. You can check out your local region’s predicted flea conditions by using this tool from the Weather Channel.


Here are additional resources for you to become more informed about ways to protect your pets, home, and family from these nasty critters:


It’s Flea Season Again. Are You Ready for the Battle?


How to Get Rid of Fleas and Ticks


ASCPA Pet Care – Fleas


Keeping Your Pets Flea-Free


Photo Credit: Lindsay Schroeder





2013年9月21日星期六

Tick & Flea Season 2013 – Protect Your Pets!


Always check your pets (and yourself) for ticks and fleas after being outdoors.



The tick and flea season 2013 unfortunately promises to be a very busy and active one. Pets and their humans have to take cover and be aware to protect from disease carried by ticks and other parasites. Veterinarian Dick Rogen of Horizon Pet Care comments, ”It started early.  They started coming in the first part of March because of that warm weather and they’re sticking around and we’re seeing more of them than we have in a lot of years.”


If you have indoor cats they’re not immune from being infected either! Fleas can be brought home by you or other pets without realizing it, and infect your cat(s). The eggs and larva stay dormant until conditions are perfect to hatch. Bayer’s Advantage® II kills fleas within 12 hours of application, and kills reinfecting fleas within 2 hours.


Dr. Mike Paul, the Executive Director of the Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC), a not-for-profit organization dedicated to the control and prevention of parasites in companion animals and the potential spread of these parasites to humans, answered some pertinent questions.


What are the most common parasites found on pets, and why are they of such concern?


First, you should know that parasite infestation and disease transmission from pets to humans – called “zoonotic” transmission – are almost completely preventable. The most common concerns include fleas and ticks – external parasites that not only cause our pets discomfort, but also pose some risk of transmitting disease to humans. Another parasite most pet parents are familiar with is heartworms. Though not of real significance in humans, left untreated, the disease is generally fatal in dogs and potentially so in cats. This deadly parasite can be totally prevented by using one of a variety of products available from veterinarians.


But most pet parents are not aware of many other parasites, which can be dangerous to pets and humans. These include tapeworm, roundworm, hookworms, whipworms and giardia.


At the CAPC, a nonprofit organization of vets and leading human and animal health experts, we educate vets and pet parents about the prevalence, prevention and treatment of external and internal parasites, as well as the potential of disease transmission from animals to humans.


Can fleas and ticks really transmit diseases to my family?



Be prepared and avoid the headache of parasitic infections.

Be prepared and avoid the headache of parasitic infections.



Yes. Fleas can carry and transmit several potential illnesses to humans and also serve as an intermediate host for tapeworms, which can infect both pets and humans. Ticks can transmit serious diseases such as Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and others.


How can I reduce the risk of parasites infecting my family?


First and foremost, I recommend that you talk to your veterinarian about both internal and external parasite control. In addition to administering the necessary preventive treatment, there also are several things you can do to protect your family and pets.


Disposing of pet feces on a regular basis can help remove potentially infective worm eggs before they become distributed in the environment, where they can be picked up or ingested by pets or humans. Pay extra attention to areas both your pet and your children use regularly, such as sandboxes and other areas of the yard. You may need to restrict either your pet or your children from certain areas to avoid contamination or prevent contact with contaminated soil. Keep the grass cut short in yards, and if you have to overgrown areas wear long clothing to prevent ticks from accessing your skin. After spending time outside in the yard, woods, playing area and/or beach, make sure you check yourself, your children and your pets for ticks!


Always encourage everyone in the family – children in particular – to practice good personal hygiene and prevent exposure to places that may be contaminated.


For more information on parasites visit: www.petsandparasites.org.


For the Best that Pet Lifestyle and Animal Welfare has to offer follow Wendy  Diamond on Facebook, Twitter, and right here at AnimalFair.com!




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2013年9月19日星期四

Tick Season in Portugal....are you aware of the problems associated with ticks?

tick_wide


It is that time of the year when ticks are out in force here in Portugal.


What are ticks?


Ticks are small, blood-sucking external parasites from the arthropods group and are related to spiders. They transmit a wide variety of pathogens. There are approximately 850 species of ticks worldwide consisting of two families the Ixodids (hard ticks), the most common and the Argasids (Soft ticks).


24 different species are known to occur in Portugal:


Argasidae (Soft tick)



  • Argas vespertilionis

  • Ornithodoros maritimus

  • Ornithodoros erraticus


Ixodidae (Hard tick)



  • Ixodes acuminatus (Southern rodent tick)

  • Ixodes bivari

  • Ixodes canisuga (Dog tick)

  • Ixodes frontalis (Passerine tick)

  • Ixodes hexagonus (Hedgehog tick)

  • Ixodes ricinus (Sheep or Deer tick)

  • Ixodes simplex

  • Ixodes ventalloi (Rabbit tick)

  • Ixodes vespertilionis (Long legged bat tick)

  • Dermacentor marginatus (Ornate sheep tick)

  • Dermacentor pictus (Meadow tick)

  • Haemaphysalis hispanica

  • Haemaphysalis inermis (Winter tick)

  • Haemaphysalis punctata (Red sheep tick)

  • Rhipicephalus bursa (Brown ear tick)

  • Rhipicephalus pusillus

  • Rhipicephalus sanguineus (Brown dog tick)

  • Rhipicephalus turanicus

  • Hyalomma lusitanicum

  • Hyalomma marginatum (Bont legged tick)

  • Boophilus annulatus (Blue cattle tick)


Tick behaviour:


Most ticks exhibit host-seeking behaviour during certain times of the year when the environmental conditions favour their development and reproduction.


They use two types of strategy to find their hosts:


Ambush Strategy:


Ticks climb onto weeds, grasses, bushes etc. and wait for their hosts to pass by. When they sense the presence of their host they extend their forelegs containing sensory apparatus known as Haller’s organ.


When the host brushes against the plant the tick immediately releases itself from the plant and crawls onto the host.


Hunter Strategy:


This is where they run or crawl to attack hosts usually those occupying dens.


Life Cycle:


Average life span of each stage is approx. 8-12 months, with the whole life cycle lasting approx. 2-3 years.


  tick lifecycle


If left undisturbed they can feed for 5-10 days before letting go and drop off.


Many of the hard ticks can survive for many months without feeding when they are in favourable conditions.


They like to attach to areas where the hair is thinner e.g. ears and tummy area.


What is the risk of tick-related diseases?


The risk depends on the climate, season and geographic location.


Portugal has been classified as low risk for:



  • Lyme Disease (Borreliosis)


and high risk for:



  • Ehrlichiosis

  • Anaplasmosis

  • Babesiosis


What illnesses / diseases can be seen with ticks?



  • Anemia – due to feeding on their hosts blood and lymph.

  • Irritation and infection at the area the tick attaches to their host, forming a pimple type lump with inflammation, pain and itching.

  • Tick paralysis – caused by a neurotoxin by the females of several species of ticks.

  • Babesiosis

  • Ehrlichiosis

  • Lyme Disease (Borreliosis)

  • Tick fever

  • Anaplasmosis

  • Hepatozoonosis


Each of these diseases will be explained in my next blogs very shortly.


How does my dog become infected?


Via an infected tick feeding from your dog for a period of longer than a day.


When feeding the tick secretes fluid into your dogs bloodstream, if the tick is infected pathogens for the disease are then transmitted along with the fluid.


Puppies are a higher risk to catch the diseases.


A short video about ticks from Frontline


What to do if you find a tick on your dog.


It is important you know how to remove ticks properly.


Incorrect removal can cause:



  • The tick’s mouthparts to be left in your dogs skin and an abscess forming which can lead to a serious infection.

  • Compression of the ticks abdomen and introduction of infected organisms from the tick’s stomach contents into your dogs bloodstream.

  • The tick’s body to be punctured which may contain infective organisms.

  • Stress and injury to the tick making it regurgitate the blood meal it has ingested into your dog which may contain infective organisms.


 DO NOT use:



  • Vaseline

  • Butter

  • Paraffin

  • Alcohol

  • Aftershave

  • Burning with a cigarette, lighter or match

  • Normal tweezers e.g. those used to pluck eyebrows


They all cause stress to the tick increasing the chance of transmitting disease to your dog.


The correct way to remove ticks:


The O’Tom tick remover is favoured by Veterinary and Medical professionals as the appropriate tool to remove ticks safely.


tick remover



  • Wear rubber/plastic gloves.

  • Never remove ticks with your bare hands or crush between your fingers – you will put yourself at risk of catching Lyme disease or other tick borne diseases.

  • Choose the right size tick remover – larger for adults and smaller for nymphs.

  • Approach the tick from the side (the body of the tick is flat) until it is held securely in the hook part of the tick remover.

  • Lift the hook very gently and steadily twist, do not yank you will leave part of the ticks mouth in causing an infection.

  • In 20-30 seconds/after 2-3 rotations the ticks release their mouth grasp and come away cleanly.

  • Disinfect the bite site and wash hands with soap and water.


tick removal


The Tick remover cradles the body of the tick applying no pressure to the ticks mouth parts or abdomen. This is why the tick remover can be safely twisted, allowing the barbs on the tick’s mouth parts to be freed from the surrounding tissue, minimising the risk of disease transmission.


A video on how to safely remove ticks from your dog.


What should I do with the tick once I have removed it?



  • Place the tick in alcohol to kill it and save in a resealable bag labelled with the date found and store in a freezer in case your dog becomes ill.

  • If you have removed a tick recently and your dog does become ill, take them to your  Veterinary Surgeon.

  • Most tick borne diseases can be treated successfully if they are caught early and treatment is administered.

  • If tick borne diseases are left untreated in your dog they can become a serious illness.


Prevention:



  • Use a topical tick control product, ideally all year round.

  • Check with your Veterinarian for the most suitable product for your dog.

  • Also check dosage frequency with your Veterinarian, some products require a more frequent application during the height of the tick season.

  • Keep away from heavily wooded, brushy areas.

  • Check your dog daily very carefully for ticks.

  • Keep grass cut short, remove weeds etc. from your garden.

  • Prompt removal of the tick can help decrease the chance of infection.


When using a topical tick control product you need to be careful with other animals or children living in your home. Any females who are pregnant should not handle the products.


Although these products are deemed safe in the right quantities and application to correct animal they are insecticides and therefore should always be used carefully. If you have any concerns seek advice from your veterinarian.



It"s Tick Season!

As seen on Fido Friendly’s Blog, written by Camp Bow Wow Boise: http://www.fidofriendly.com/blog/how-to-handle-ticks-on-your-dog


Your dog comes in from a romp by the river and settles down on your lap for a belly rub when you feel a bump on your dog’s soft fur. When you look closer you find the bane of many a dog and dog owner’s life: the tick.


Male brown dog ticks and non-engorged female ticks are flat and brown. Deer ticks are tiny; you can barely see them if they haven’t had their ‘drink’ yet. As the female ticks fill up on your dog’s blood they start to look like gray beans about a quarter inch long. They have four small legs on each side near their mouth. The deer tick is known to carry Lyme disease and can be harder to find than the dog tick because it is so small.  We have seen both types on dogs recently.


How do you safely remove the tick? First you need the right tools, then you need a steady hand. First, get yourself a fine-tipped tweezers or you can use one of the new tick removal instruments they sell at your local pet supply superstore. The new instruments let you remove the tick without squeezing the tick’s body so you don’t introduce harmful bacteria from the tick into your dog’s bloodstream.



1.   First, grab the tick by the head or the mouth parts right where they enter the skin. This can be hard if the tick isn’t engorged with blood. Don’t grab the tick by the body.


2.   Now you have a firm hold on the tick’s head. Pull firmly back and out in a straight motion. Don’t twist the tick as you are pulling it out.


3.   Look at the ugly thing wriggling around in your tweezers. These things are just plain yucky! We cannot figure out one good thing about these creatures! Then stick it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. Ticks don’t die when you flush them down the toilet.


4.   Just in case some bacteria were released during the tick removal, dab your dog’s skin with a disinfectant ointment.


5.   Wash your hands too. You may actually feel like taking a shower.


Some old wives’ tales about tick removal are not effective, and can be dangerous. Do not burn the tick with a hot match; you could burn your dog, or you. Sticking petroleum jelly or soap on the tick, or dabbing it with alcohol won’t work either. You need to pull out the tick with the tweezers.


What happens if part of the tick’s head stays in your dog? Don’t panic. Your dog’s skin will inflame and break the pieces with time. Sometimes your dog’s skin will react after you pull out a tick because the tick’s saliva can be irritating to the dog. You may notice swelling or even a scar with a hairless area after you remove the tick. You could use some hydrocortisone cream to help if the skin looks really irritated, but it will calm down naturally, with time.



Of course, the best thing to do is prevent ticks from biting your dog in the first place. Use anti-tick medicine as prescribed by your vet and keep your dog out of high grasses and leaves. Check them regularly, and remove ticks promptly.


Remember, you need the right tools and a steady hand to win the war against the tick.



2013年9月16日星期一

Tick Season





Tick Season




Well I’m back from a long visit home to North Dakota. My mom’s side of the family was born and raised in central ND and I went home for a family reunion, the centennial celebration of Tuttle, ND (my great-grandma’s hometown), and the Scandinavian Hjemkomst Festival.


While there we visited the old family homestead where my great-grandparents had six of their ten children in this house:




Long grass = tick heaven. Long grass + cows = tick PARADISE.



We then tried to walk through the fields out to “the big rock,” a glacial leftover where my grandmother and her sisters used to hang out when they went to bring the cows home. It’s a lovely little spot. Except the grass was thigh-high and we decided to follow the cow path to get there.


BAD IDEA. We’d already found a few ticks on us after tromping through the long grass, but after following the cow path for about 20 yards and then stopping to look down, my mom, cousin and I realized that we were crawling with ticks! The little buggers had dropped off of and/or sought out the big, warm, hairy cows, but were happy to jump on us instead. We quickly flicked as many as we could off of us, then hightailed it back to the car, taking the roundabout, non-cow-trail way this time. I was wearing a jean skirt and tennis shoes and hiked up my skirt to check for ticks, then took off my shoes and found them secreted in between the tied laces and between the tongue and top of my shoes and just about everywhere they could fit their flat little bodies. Because we were still out in the middle of nowhere, we just flicked them off of us. And then picked them off of my pants-wearing cousin during the car ride home and flicked them out the window.


But few people encounter ticks on the open prairie. And people really freak out about ticks (although after having that many on me, I’m totally desensitized now), so I thought I’d write this little article to be informative about ticks and their habits, how to avoid them, and how to deal with them when you get bitten.


There are three main kinds of ticks that commonly feed on humans – the American dog tick (also known as wood ticks), the Lone Star tick, and deer ticks. Of the three types, only deer ticks carry Lyme disease.


For help identifying ticks, check out this great website by the University of Rhode Island. Deer and dog/wood ticks are the most common in the Northeast.


Ticks can bite and feed off of people at nearly any stage of life after they are hatched. Right now deer tick nymphs (which look like itty, bitty ticks) are in full swing. Summertime is the most common time for people to be bitten or find ticks on themselves. This is primarily because people are spending more time outside, but also because this is prime tick season. Many ticks are inactive  and/or cannot feed during colder weather. They are not, however, killed by frosts so precautions should be taken throughout the year.


Ticks live on blades of grass and leaves and latch onto mammals that brush up against the grass and leaves. They are most common in tall grass and vegetation, though you can pick them up from your lawn as well. Ticks cannot jump or fly and they do not live in trees.


Here are some helpful hints for avoiding ticks:



  • Stay on the beaten path. Avoid walking through heavy brush and/or tall grass. If walking through the woods, stick to open areas and avoid plants (this is also helpful in avoiding poison ivy).

  • Except for beaten livestock or deer paths. Ticks can be even worse there as they drop off of deer and cows where those animals frequent the most. So stay on the people paths.

  • If you do have to travel through grass or heavy brush, there are two options: have bare, shaven legs and check frequently for ticks (like, every 10 minutes) and do a full-body tick check when finished. OR wear long pants tucked INTO high cotton socks. If you can find clothing or especially socks treated with permethrin or treat them yourself this will also help. Always check for ticks even if you wear treated clothing and/or tuck your pants into your socks. Ticks can hide themselves in any crevice, so check shoes and the seams of your pants as well.

  • If you do find a tick crawling on you, get it off immediately. Killing ticks is preferable to just flicking them off, especially deer ticks as they carry Lyme and other diseases and bacteria.


How to kill a tick

Ticks are notoriously hard to kill. You cannot simply step on them like other arachnids. Hard-shelled ticks (which include deer, wood, and lone star ticks) must have their shell pierced in order to be killed. You can do this several ways. The simplest is to crush them against a hard surface with your fingernail or another sharp object such as a knife. You can also cut them in half with scissors. If they are very tiny, the fingernail method works well, as does crushing the tick with a sharp rock against a hard flat surface, like another rock.

You can also kill ticks by dropping them in liquid alcohol (shake it to fully submerse them) or burning them (especially the head) with a lit match. But cutting them in half or smushing them is the easiest way.

However, with deer ticks, the bacteria that cause Lyme disease live inside the tick and can be spread by smushing, so alcohol and burning are the most effective way to kill them. You can also flush them down the toilet if you’re really kill-avoidant. Also note that the vaseline method does not work as ticks cannot really be smothered and can survive without air for a long time.

Dealing with ticks “dug in”

When a tick bites you or your pet, they can often “dig in” and bury their whole head into the skin. Ticks cannot bury their whole bodies, however, just their heads.

Once you have been bitten by a tick, remove it as soon as possible. The easiest way to do this is with pointy-ended tweezers, though angle-edged tweezers work also. If you can’t stomach removing it yourself, have someone else do it. Try to get the whole tick out, including the head. Pull slowly so as not to rip off the head. The tick will often take a small piece of skin with it, but ticks secrete a numbing agent (which is how they bite us without us noticing), so it shouldn’t hurt.

If you don’t have tweezers on hand, use your fingers and/or fingernails and pull gently, but firmly and slowly.

Once the tick is removed, kill it (see above) and swab the area with rubbing alcohol and/or wash it with antibacterial soap, especially if it is a deer tick. Lyme disease is caused by Lyme bacteria, so alcohol and other antibacterial agents can help kill it.

If the tick is already swollen with blood, dispose of it by flushing it down the toilet. If the tick is so swollen it has dropped off of it’s own accord, simply throw it away. It’s not going anywhere.

Lyme Disease

Lyme disease is carried primarily by deer ticks and for some reason seems to be more prevalent in the Northeast than in the Midwest. Lyme disease is NOT carried by American dog ticks, a.k.a. wood ticks.

Lyme disease signs include flu-like symptoms such as fatigue or tiredness, joint pain, fever or chills, headaches, and swollen lymph nodes. If you experience these symptoms in concert and they do not go away, see a doctor and get tested for Lyme if you have been exposed to deer tick bites.

The most obvious sign is a bulls-eye-like rash on the skin – a red circle surrounded by a red ring. If you find one of these rashes on your body see a doctor immediately for treatment. If the rash appears immediately and then fades, it was likely just an allergic reaction. If the rash appears 5 days to 1 month after being bitten and gets larger or if multiple rashes appear, see a doctor immediately.

If you find a deer tick bitten in on your body and think it has been on for more than 24 hours, remove it immediately, swab the area with rubbing alcohol. If you start to feel the above symptoms and especially if you see a rash 5 days to 1 month after being bitten, make a doctor’s appointment to check for Lyme.  Remember, common wood ticks do not carry Lyme disease. Also, save the tick that bit you for testing for the bacteria that causes Lyme disease. That can be more accurate in diagnosis than blood tests, which are apparently more accurate in the later states of the disease.

If left untreated, Lyme bacteria can cause chronic Lyme disease, which is a permanent condition which includes achy joints or arthritis, decreased concentration, nerve damage, and vision problems. So when in doubt, see the doctor!

Lyme disease, while on the rise, is not very common when compared to the number of people who get bitten by ticks annually. Also, Lyme-disease-like symptoms can sometimes really be from something else (like in the case of someone I know, Vitamin D deficiency).

Most importantly – Don’t freak out!

The chance of getting ticks is no reason not to spend time outdoors. However, many people freak out when they find ticks on them and can rip them out, fail to kill them, or worse yet, flick them off while still alive and then lose them in the house. Think of ticks like mosquitoes. Do you freak out when one of them bites you? No, you simply kill it or wave it away. Mosquitoes and ticks both have the same reason for biting you – to suck your blood. Ticks just hang around for longer than mosquitoes. It is importantly to remove the tick quickly, but it can wait a few seconds (or even minutes) to be removed properly and killed, especially if it is already bitten in.

Now that you know a little more about ticks, I hope you will be more careful out of doors, but don’t let them keep you inside either!

Happy hiking.







2013年9月15日星期日

Summer + rainy season = Ticks -- What you should know about tick disease in dogs



What a summer! We’re having East Coast weather – humidity, rain, hot, muggy. Besides the swamp cooler being useless, what else do we need to think about? We’ve already had the plague here – now we need to think out tick diseases. The wildlife is carrying it – but we all moved here to be around wildlife. So here’s the scoop – humans and pets can get tick diseases and here’s what you should watch for:




There are 4 major tick diseases which affects dogs in the US: Lyme disease, Rocky mountain spotted fewer, ehrlichiosis and babesiosis.


Lyme disease: Lyme disease, named after the town of Lyme, CT, is carried by the black-legged deer tick (Ixodes scapularis) in the East and in the West by Ixodes pacificus or Ixodes neotomae. Larvae of the deer tick feed on mice, nymphs on mice and small mammals and the adult prefers to feed on deer, so those are the primary hosts at each stage of the tick’s life. Lyme is endemic in the Northeast and steadily growing in the Midwest and in California. The South and Southwest has a very low (1%) infestation rate.

Symptoms in dogs are generally present with signs of arthritis in the joints closest to the tick bites. Two to five months after being bitten, the lameness that is the primary indicator of possible Lyme disease can come on suddenly and severely; other times it comes on more gradually. You may see shifting lameness where the dog favors one leg, then another. Lameness may come and go, sometimes for weeks at a time. The dog may go off his food. Neurological damage is possible, seizures and changes in temperament, from dullness to extreme of aggression, have been reported in dogs with Lyme. There is no rash as it occurs in humans. Normally, Lyme is crippling but it doesn’t kill and the most common signs of the disease are almost always hidden. Lately, veterinarians reported signs of kidney and neurological problems with dogs infected with lyme disease.


Rocky Mountain Spotted Fewer: Despite its name, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever is found mainly in the Eastern US and usually makes itself known in spring and summer (March to October) but cases of human RMSF have been reported in almost every state, Canada, South America and Mexico.
Dogs most at risk are young, generally large breeds(german shepards and dobermans especially) that spend a lot of time outdoors. Dogs over 3 or 4 years old aren’t as likely to get RMSF, possibly having acquired an immunity.
The onset of the disease is rapid. Four or five days after being bitten, the dog will become feverish (up to 105 degrees). Symptoms may include depression, loss of appetite, swollen lymph nodes, bruising on the skin or gums, tiny hemorrhages under the skin, muscle pain, retinal hemorrage, swollen or painful joints. A staggering gait, difficulty keeping his balance, is the dog’s most common neurological sign. Seizures are possible. A decrease in the platelets responsible for clotting (thrombocytopenia), is the most consistent finding in blood tests.
If left untreated, RMSF either kills quickly (the disease runs its course in approximately two weeks) or the dog gets over it and is then immune. Symptoms may range from slight through severe to fatal.
It takes two to three weeks for antibodies to be detectable but then their numbers rise sharply for several weeks before they level off and begin a long, slow, gradual decline over many months. Obviously the timeline is very tight here, so, since research indicates that death from untreated RMSF is more common than previously thought, a dog that appears to have it should be treated immediately without waiting for test results to come back.


Ehrlichiosis — Ehrlichiosis (E. Canis) has three stages. The acute stage is brief and the symptoms are easily missed; it may appear as if the dog has a mild and passing viral infection: snotty nose, diarrhea, fever, a general lack of his usual oomph. In a stoic dog especially, a change in behavior may be the only alert he gives you to get him to the vet.
It’s in this stage that the outlook for a cure is best. Very early on, however, testing is probably useless; until ten days to two weeks after infection, the immune system will not have had time to make sufficient antibodies for the tests to detect.
The acute stage over, the disease passes into the subclinical stage. This simply means a stage in which no symptoms are present. Cure, or at the very least, containment of the disease so that it cannot progress, is still a good possibility in this stage, which may last for years.
If the disease progresses to chronic, the outlook is grave, particularly in E. risticii and E. canis. Symptoms show up with a vengeance at this point. There are a lot of symptoms and they are easily mistaken for other diseases: intermittent fever or loss of appetite lethargy, total loss of appetite, gradual loss of body condition (esp. along the spine and around the eyes), viral tumors on the face/mouth/muzzle, hemorrhaging even when the blood count looks normal, clotting problems, low or high calcium levels, seizures, muscle wasting, skin infections, neurological signs, diarrhea, low platelet count, urine too alkaline, vomiting, hyper-reflective eyes, low white blood cell count, bleeding from nose or eyes, signs of arthritis, pneumonia, cough, kidney failure, increased thirst and urination, incoordination, neck or back pain, bleeding under the skin or a rash, swelling of the legs or joints, enlarged lymph nodes, irreversible bone marrow suppression.


Babesiosis — Babesiosis is a disease of the red blood cells and results in varying degrees of hemolytic anemia (essentially destruction of the RBCs that carry oxygen to the blood). It seems to hit greyhounds extremely hard but any dog that contracts it may become severely ill. It can come on sharply (acute) or violently (peracute) though neither of these stages is common in the US…or perhaps the disease simply isn’t often recognized for what it is in either of these stages. It’s generally found in the subclinical stage, where there are no apparent symptoms, or the chronic stage in which the disease is well-entrenched and symptoms are obvious .
The brown dog tick, is the usual culprit in the transmission of babesiosis; however, transmission has also occurred by direct, blood to blood transfer in fighting dogs, and by the transfusion of infected blood. Infected bitches have been known to pass the disease to pups in the womb.
In the United States, Babesiosis canis shows up mostly in the South but it does occur in other areas.. Babesiosis gibsoni is found all over the country but most often appears in pit bull terriers.
The dogs most at risk are those brought into an endemic area. These dogs are prone to severe infection. Evidently, those that are born in an area where babesiosis is prevalent get the infection while they’re still protected by the colostrum in the mother’s milk and, as a result, become immune carriers.
Clinical signs include fever that comes and goes, red or orange-colored urine, loss of appetite and the dog becomes too thin, his bones are more prominent, his coat is dull and there is at least some loss of muscle mass.
Because there is a foreign invader in the red blood cells, the dog’s immune system will start to destroy them, adding to the destruction the babesia are causing. A drop in the platelets which aid in blood clotting can make things even worse; this is especially a problem in B. gibsoni. As if that weren’t enough, the immune system may begin destroying uninfected RBCs as well. Half of all dogs with babesiosis will need transfusion. Severe inflammation is common and localized inflammation of the central nervous system can occur.


Testing: In order to make a diagnosis, one of the first things a vet will do is run a Complete Blood Count. A CBC can be very helpful, showing up things like reduced platelets or an increase or decrease in white blood cells. However, it’s important to remember that a normal CBC does not mean that a dog is free of a tick-borne disease. The CBC alone is not enough to rule them out. In fact, a negative titer on an IFA or ELISA test is not enough. Tests are only part of a diagnosis.


Treatments: A semisynthetic tetracycline, doxycycline is the drug of choice for Ehrlichiosis, Lyme Disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. It is an antibiotic. All antibiotics destroy or inhibit bacteria and don’t differentiate “good” from “bad”; they wipe out beneficial bacteria in the dog’s gut right along with the disease-causing organisms. It’s a wise idea, then, to give the dog probiotics as long as he’s taking doxycycline and for several weeks afterward to avoid the gastrointestinal problems that can develop if he’s left without this help for eight weeks or more.


Tick Removal: The Right Way to Remove a Tick
Use a tool specifically made for removing ticks, a pair of sharp tweezers (not blunt ones) or a small pair of curved forceps.
Grab the tick right behind the head, i.e., as close to the skin as you can get, and PULL SLOWLY – STRAIGHT OUT. Don’t twist the tick, it isn’t made to unscrew. The tick’s hypostome, the part that penetrates the dog, has barbs like fishhooks, so slow, easy and straight out is the way you want to go. Do not pull out ticks with your bare hands, you are putting yourself in risk to contract the disease!


Prevention: There are no natural prevention which helps 100% against ticks. In mildly infested areas, you can try natural tick collars or sprays available in your local health food store. In heavily infested areas you need chemical based tick prevention, such as tick collars, sprays or spot-on preventatives such as Frontline. please always consult with your veterinarian about the safest and most affective prevention in your area.




Keep watchful, get things checked out if you have any concerns. These things are treatable if you tend to it early.


2013年9月14日星期六

Tick Season in Calgary

This summer, the bacteria that causes lyme disease (borrelia burgdorferi) has been found on several ticks in Alberta. The Government of Alberta has released a warning for Albertans to take precautions when outdoors, as lyme disease can be a serious condition if not detected early or left completely untreated.


Thankfully, noticing a dark, beady bug attached to your skin is relatively easy for most humans – but what about our pets?


“It is important for pet owners to inspect their animals for ticks, especially after they’ve visited areas where ticks are, such as grassy fields and wooded areas,” says Dr. Gerald Hauer, Chief Provincial Veterinarian.


For some, the advice seems like a no-brainer, but with potentially lyme carrying ticks usually being quite rare around Calgary and Edmonton, not everyone knows what to look for or how to look. To help out, we’ve compiled some tips for tick-prevention as well as how to thoroughly check your pets for these potentially problematic parasites.


An Ounce of Prevention..



  • Over-the-Counter/Prescription Control


One of the best things you can do is to talk to your veterinarian about regular parasite prevention through products like Frontline Plus or K9 Advantix. Different products offer different types and levels of protection, so its best to discuss your pet’s individual needs and lifestyle to decide on your particular medication and your recommended frequency of application.



  • Natural Flea & Tick Repellent




  1. For a repellent that you don’t have to worry about physically applying, many have found a great, natural repellent to be had in the addition of garlic to your dog’s diet. Most owners won’t notice any change, but even a small amount of garlic helps your dog’s skin to emit an odor that ticks, fleas and vampires happen to find pretty repulsive. The general rule of thumb is to use fresh garlic in just one of Fido’s daily meals, and combine 2 grams of crushed or chopped garlic for every 40 pounds of pooch. For already finicky eaters or dogs who are as turned off by the smell as the parasites you’re trying to prevent, garlic supplements in pill form are a perfectly acceptable replacement – just read the directions carefully to determine the appropriate dose!

  2. Insect repellents via topical formulas are something most households are familiar with, but the idea of spraying potentially dangerous chemicals on your dog’s easily licked legs and feet isn’t something we’d ever suggest. Instead, try something like..




  • Mixing 2 tbsp. of almond oil with 15 drops of Rose Geranium essential oil. Put a few drops of this solution on your dog’s collar each time you go outside. The remaining mixture can be stored in an air-tight container, and will keep for up to six months after!



  • Make a repellent spray out of one part lemon juice to one part water. You can put the mixture into a spray bottle, and squirt your dog’s coat like you would spray yourself with Off! Just make sure you don’t spray anywhere near his eyes or nose.




“Many natural essential oils that have sharp, spicy or sour tastes can help prevent flea and tick infestations. Oils such as spearmint, peppermint, melaleuca, lavender and lemongrass are all prime examples. Put a couple to a few drops on your dog’s collar before leaving the house or mix one with equal or more parts of water into a spray bottle. Mist your pet’s entire coat while making sure you also apply it to any crevices..”







.. And a Pound of Cure


Before engorging themselves on the blood of their chosen host, ticks are actually pretty small and relatively easy to miss. It’s worth pointing out that when checking your pet over after a romp in the great outdoors, you’re more likely to feel the tick before you actually see it. They also enjoy places hidden from view where they won’t actively be disturbed by outside forces.


Tips for the Tick-Check



    • Crevices such as those at the base of the ear, inside legs/thighs/armpits, testicles or other similar places are great hiding places for ticks. They’re warm, dark, and sheltered away from anything outside that might remove them. Like you.

    • Occasionally they’ll attach themselves to even stranger places, such as eyelids, lips, the vulva, or even on the rectum!


    • Always check between the toes! Ticks are most likely to hitch a ride on your dog’s feet or legs first and foremost, and in between the toes is prime parasite real estate without them having to go very far.

    • For squirmy dogs, making it seem like you’re petting more than inspecting can go a long way. Start at one end – I personally like to go against the grain of the hair just to make sure I get beneath it and feel the skin – and rub in circular motions upwards and thoroughly. It doesn’t take long to cover the whole dog, and I can’t think of any pup who doesn’t like a good rub-down!


If you find a tick, don’t panic, and definitely don’t just rip the critter off by its body. Ticks bury their heads in their host, and plucking them right off can leave bits and pieces of the insect inside of the skin. This can cause irritations, infections, or other complications that could end up worse than the tick itself.

Removing the Uninvited Guest




  • Don’t put petroleum jelly, a hot match, or rubbing alcohol on the back of the tick. While these methods work for some to make the tick “back out” of its bite, they can also make the tick deposit more disease-carrying saliva into the wound.


  • Do use a pair of tweezers or an official tick removal tool of your choice. Grab the tick right where it’s mouth parts enter the skin, and, with steady pressure, pull outwards without any twisting. This might take a minute or two, but with patience and steady pressure you’ll remove the tick, head and all.


  • Don’t think stepping on the tick will kill it. Instead, you can drop the tick into alcohol, burn it, or freeze it instead. You can also collect it in an air-tight container to bring to your veterinarian for disease testing.


  • Don’t feel absolutely obligated to remove the tick yourself if you’re uncomfortable. If you prefer a less hands-on approach, bring your pet to the vet and they will remove the tick and collect it for testing themselves.


Aftercare




  • If you’ve removed the tick yourself, a bit of antiseptic over the wound and a small amount of a regular, over-the-counter antibiotic ointment is typically more than enough to keep any infection from happening at the site of the bite.

  • Some dogs have a reaction to the tick saliva itself, so don’t be surprised or alarmed if you see a small rash or welt at the site of the bite.

  • Keep the area clean and dry, and the typical tick-bite should heal in a little over a week.