A feral dog, vomit, and ticks. Oh my!

For months I have said, “I’m going to take a rescue break.  I’m not going to foster anymore dogs.”  And for just that long, the universe has said: “No, not yet…”

That’s sort of how this situation went down two weeks ago.  I got a call from a friend Julie, who explained she was on her way to help another friend with a stray dog that she had caught.

She went on to explain that her friend was at a very busy intersection unsuccessfully trying to catch this little dog, had given up, was walking back to her car, and heard the dog screaming.  She ran back to see what was wrong, and he had fallen into a pond and was drowning.  She lassoed the dog and quickly pulled him to safety.  At that point he started freaking out from being on a leash, and was “alligator rolling” trying to get away.  In my mind I was thinking, “Oh, just a little dog being a little dog.  He is freaked out but will be just fine in a day or two.” 

I have never been more wrong….

Julie brings me this boy, who is pressed so tightly up against the back wall of the crate, that I was expecting the impression of cage bars on him when I reached into the kennel to remove him.

Usually this is the point where I would get bit and draw back a bleeding appendage, but that was too predictable for this boy!  Instead when I reached in to pick him up, he promptly barfed up 2 cups of food on my hand and arm.  In my mind I was quietly chanting:  “I love dogs.  I love dogs.  It is okay that you just vomited up warm, semi chewed food all over me.  I love dogs….”

I carry him into the house, Julie was in charge of carrying the cage full of vomit (small price to pay really…) and we set off to bathe the little prince.  Now, my bathroom is small, (It’s honestly the size of a shoebox…) and I’m bent over the tub scrubbing the heck out of this dog watching the fleas and ticks fall off him, when I hear Julie, who is standing behind me say: “Don’t panic.  Hold still.”  (Never something you want someone to say when standing behind you!)  I immediately froze and Julie in the calmest voice ever says:  “I think that’s a tick on your back.”  Suddenly, I hear the Reluctant Farmer scream from behind the closed bathroom door: “Just hold still!  I’ll get it!”  She knows her role in this relationship so WELL!  Secretly, I think she was worried about Julie’s safety.  There is not enough room in this bathroom for me to freak out and do my “bug dance”.

For those of you that have never been privileged enough to witness my “bug dance”, it entails screaming, jumping up and down, the flailing of arms, and occasionally the shedding of clothes.  (Think Tom Cruise during the infamous Oprah couch interview, but worse because I am naked.  Which is almost as scary as Tom Cruise, but an entirely different blog post…) So now, we have 3 women, 1 dog, and 1 dead tick squeezed into the postage stamp sized lavatory.  Crisis averted!

It isn’t long before we realize this little dog had some BIG issues!  He isn’t your average “I’m scared and out of my element, but I can be bribed” little dog.  He is an all out “I’ve never been around humans, not lived indoors, hunt for my own food” sort of dog. 

There were a few things about this dog that set him apart from any other dog I had ever fostered:

1) He tried to escape through any window, door or screen that he came into contact with, and would climb on any surface that might get him a little closer to the escape route.

2) He would be as quiet as a mouse in his crate during the day, but as soon as the lights were off he would scream like he was being killed.  (The trainer says this is a sure sign he had been running for a while.  He is afraid of the dark because he knows he has the possibility of being something’s pray.)

3) This dog was scared out of his mind of any and all humans.

All of this behavior was enough to make some think euthanasia was the best option for him.  But, there would be one thing that would save his life.  This dog, as feral as he was, showed no aggression towards people.  In the end, I would try to rehab and save this dog, purely on this fact alone.  Success?  Well, that remains to be seen, but what I do know is that death is permanent and I couldn’t sleep at night if I didn’t give this little guy a chance.  There will be more about this boy in the days to come.  

Meet Wigzi….

When Are Dogs More Likely To Pick Up Ticks?

According to a new study, it may be slightly later than expected.Spring means the start of the tick season, both for pet parents and their pooches.A new study by Georg Duscher and colleagues at the University of Veterinary Medicine, Vienna has shown how much more likely it is for pets to pick up ticks when the temperatures go up.

Georg Duscher and colleagues analysed data for 700 ticks found  on 90 dogs, that were frequently walked in a particular area in eastern Austria.Of all the three species of ticks most often found,the most common one-Ixodes Ricinus, mostly infected dogs in April and May, although a second peak in infection occurred in September,Dermacentor Reticulatus was largely found during the months of March/April, with much lower numbers in October.Meanwhile Haemaphysalis Concinna seemed to favor the summer months-June/July.

So although the species of tick that your furry friends are most likely to encounter will vary according to the season, dog parents need to pay special attention to the possibility of ticks throughout the year, most especially from March through November.

The scientists also discovered that the number of ticks per day on animals treated with an acaricide, either alone or together with a repellent, was not significantly lower than untreated animals.Disturbingly, the ticks in question are capable of major tick-borne diseases.

Dogs in central Europe are at risk of four granulocytic anaplasmosis:

canine babesiosis

canine granulocytic anaplasmosis

canine borreliosis

tick-borne encephalitis

Michael Leschnik of the Vetmeduni Vienna’s Small Animal Clinic was able to show that over half of the 90 dogs in the study had become infected with one or more of the pathogens during the study period. He found that the chance of being infected did not seem to be reduced by the use of an acaricide, either alone or with a repellent.He also thought that the poor performance of the acaricide may be due to pet parents only applying the spot-on drugs after finding the ticks and that they did not use the drugs often enough.” The efficiency is much higher under laboratory conditions, so we should try to raise the owners’ awareness of how to apply the products correctly,” says Leschnik.

Duscher also found that the ticks preferred to be on the heads, shoulders and chests of dogs .”their body shape makes it difficult for them to crawl through dense fur, so ticks probably attach close to where they arrive rather than risking being knocked off by vegetation,” says Duscher.

Claudia Bensimoun

© Copyright 2013

Ticks in Toronto!

My neighbour recently mentioned that her dog was bitten by two ticks in the past several weeks. Her veterinarian mentioned that ticks have become a more prevalent problem lately in the Toronto area. The Public Health Agency of Canada has information about ticks in Canada on their website http://www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/id-mi/tickinfo-eng.php but I found the information dated and not as detailed as I was looking for. The US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s website is more useful and detailed. You can find the CDC’s website here http://www.cdc.gov/ticks/.

Ticks can carry nasty diseases such as Lyme Disease, Ehrlichiosis and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, to name just a few. The best approach for dealing with tick-borne diseases is to prevent ticks from biting you and your dog in the first place. Not all of the heartworm/flea/tick prevention products purchased from your vet will prevent all types of ticks from biting and transmitting diseases to your dog. It is therefore important to take an additional step to protect your furry friend.

Whenever I hike, I spray my dogs down with a natural repellent  made from essential oils and water. Since using this spray, I have not found a tick on me or my dogs after a hike. Here is the recipe I use:

• 15 drops lemongrass essential oil


• 30 drops lavender essential oil


• 30 drops cedar wood essential oil


• 20 drops peppermint essential oil


• 20 drops eucalyptus essential oil


• 10 oz distilled water

Place all ingredients in an 10oz. or larger spray bottle. Always shake before spraying you and your dogs. You can also double the recipe if you have a larger bottle. I carry this spray in my van so that I am ready and prepared to spray each dog down at the trail head of the day.

In addition to using a natural repellent, I also examine all dogs in my care after each hike. I look for scrapes and injuries as well as external parasites such as ticks and fleas so I can remove any I find. I have yet to find a flea or tick on the dogs though!

Happy, safe hiking!  

Let"s Talk Ticks

Let’s talk Ticks

Ticks are an indisputably dreaded enemy – none of us wants to find a tick on our dogs, other pets or ourselves. Besides the obvious “ick” factor, ticks are bad news because they may transmit diseases and even cause anemia or paralysis. As a dog owner, there are some basics you should know about the risks, prevention and removal of ticks. With proper knowledge, you can help protect your dog from the threat of ticks.

To search for ticks on your dog, run your hands all over the body, paying close attention to the ears neck, skin folds and other crevices.  Closely examine any raised areas closely by parting the hair, making sure you are in a very well-lit area.  Depending on species and life stage, a tick may be as small as a pencil point or as large as a lima bean (when engorged). If you live in an area where ticks are prevalent, or your dog spends a lot of time in high grasses or wooded areas, you should check for ticks once or twice a day. If you find an embedded tick, be sure to remove it promptly.

The best way to protect your dog from the hazards of ticks is to keep them from attaching to your dog in the first place. As stated earlier, routine checks should be done to search for ticks on your dog. Finding them before they attach is helpful, but this is not the most accurate method of prevention. To reduce the number of ticks hiding out in your yard, keep grass mowed and plants neatly trimmed. You may also choose to treat outdoor areas with pesticides, but be sure to use a substance that is safe for dogs and preferably environmentally-friendly.

One of the most effective ways to keep ticks off your dog is to directly apply a tick prevention product specifically designed for dogs.  Some products are available over-the-counter while others require a prescription. Though approved for use on dogs, be aware that these products contain toxic components and should ALWAYS be used according to the directions. Do not use extra amounts of a product or apply more than one at the same time. Take note that most of these products are highly toxic to cats. Talk to your veterinarian about the best options for your dog’s lifestyle. Also be aware that not all products will work for every dog, so a bit of trial and error may be in order. With the proper knowledge, you can help defeat the dreaded tick and protect your dog, your family and yourself from the dangers of tick-borne diseases.

Keep them safe, and remember, if you aren’t sure what to do, ask your veterinarian!

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NH TICKS: ALIVE AND WELL IN FALL AND WINTER:

At the bottom of this post is information about ticks taken from: Fact sheet by Alan Eaton, UNH Cooperative Extension Specialist, Entomology: May 2009 (thank you for this helpful information.)

Many of us believe that colder weather and snow is synonymous with saying goodbye to Ticks, those nasty spider-like creatures that threaten humans and pets alike, and welcoming the newfound freedom of long walks along nature trails. Unfortunately, this is not the case at all. Each year, it has been commonplace to find at least one or two ticks walking around on or even attached to our dogs. A little research into the subject brought to light that anytime in the winter when the weather raises to above 40 degrees those nasty ticks resurface and are ready to feast on an unsuspecting host.
I have been patiently waiting for at least the first frost to take my own dog into the beautiful nature trails, one of my favorite, is Mill Pond in West Newbury, Ma. Today, I was tempted to do just that but settled on taking Beauty, our Golden Retriever and our guest Tiny for a walk in the fields of Rebecca Farms Homestead in Danvers, Ma. Mindful of ticks, we remained on the wooded paths and away from the tall grassy fields.
Curious, about the upcoming chilly weather and the fate of ticks in NH, I consulted the UNH Extension website to learn more about the incidence of ticks in our area and the life cycle of this nasty creature. I have taken the liberty to include information from their website for your review. It is clear that ticks are alive and thriving all year in our area. Soft and hard ticks are of concern to us and pose the threat of serious health risks. Here is what the folks at the UNH Extension have to say on the subject of the winter ticks we encounter, and be forewarned, it is not pretty:

NEW HAMPSHIRE TICK SPECIES – WINTER TICK UNH EXTENSION FACT SHEET BY ALAN EATON, UNH COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SPECIALIST, AND ENTOMOLOGY: MAY 2009

“In New Hampshire winter ticks have been collected as far south as Durham, Nottingham, Wilton, and Roxbury, but the species is more common farther north. Hunters or other people active in the woods in October and November occasionally sit on, or place a hand on the ground in a group of larvae waiting for a host. As many as 50 larvae have been found on a glove or pant leg after such an encounter. The larvae are brown, slightly smaller than a pinhead. Sometimes moose are found in winter with large patches of bare skin, carrying hundreds of winter ticks. Such heavy infestations sometimes kill the moose. Normally ticks are found in lower numbers (not hundreds per animal) on moose and deer. Adult winter ticks look like slightly elongated versions of the American dog tick.
The brown dog tick, Rhipicephalus sanguineus, is uncommon in New Hampshire, though it probably occurs throughout the state. This species is slightly smaller and slightly different in shape than the American dog tick. It is reddish-brown in color and lacks the mottling the Dermacentor species have. It has a life cycle very similar to other three-host ticks (like the Ameri¬can dog tick). It can be a problem in kennels and zoos, but rarely bites people. It has a strong tendency to crawl upwards and hides in cracks in kennel roofs or in ceilings or porches. In heated buildings, it can appear at any time of the year. It is unlikely this tick would be found anywhere but in or adjacent to kennels or houses where dogs are kept. This species can spread two diseases to dogs: canine Erlichiosis and canine babesiosis.
The blacklegged tick (deer tick), Ixodes scapularis, is our second most common species. Until 1993, northern specimens were considered a dif¬ferent species, called the deer tick (Ixodes dammini). It looks similar to the tick species mentioned above, but is smaller and more rounded. It lacks the mottling of Dermacentor species. Adult males are very dark brown, almost black. Adult females are two-toned: dark chestnut browns on head, legs and sputum, and orange-red on the rear half of the body. Nymphs are about the size of a pinhead (1-2mm), and adults are just over 1/16″ (2-3 mm) long. When fully engorged with a blood meal, an adult female-blacklegged tick can swell to 3/8-inch (10 mm) long.
This species has received much attention because it is the vector of (transmits) the organism that causes Lyme disease. A 2007 study also found two additional pathogens in some NH black legged ticks: the pathogens that cause babesiosis and anaplasmosis in people.” Alan Eaton, UNH Cooperative Extension Specialist, Entomology: May 2009

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Ticks – Nasty Bloodsuckers

Ticks-Nasty Bloodsuckers

Ticks are external parasites.  They are disgusting insects usually no bigger than 2-3 millimeters.  

Engorged tick

 

 

However, when they are engorged during feeding, they can reach until 1 centimeter in size.  Ticks survive by feeding off the blood of other mammals and birds.  By inserting their mandibles and feeding tubes into the skin, they are able to suck blood freely from their host.

Ticks are known to usually attack our pets, namely dogs but they can also attach themselves to us if we do not take certain precautions.

Precautions have to be made to prevent this from happening

 

 

 

 

How to control ticks in your home

As it is well known, dogs and cats are easily attacked by ticks.  The ultimate tick control solution is to keep your pets indoors but if your dog is a pretty big-sized one that is capable of knocking a chair over, I’m quite certain that it has to be kept outdoors.

1. Talk to your veterinarian on a suitable and effective tick medicine or repellent for your pet.  Don’t try doing this on your own as you can cause a new health problem for your pet if the medicine is not compatible with your pet.


2. If your pet spends a lot of time in the garden, cut the grass short.  This is because ticks usually live in long overgrown grasses.  You can also spray light pesticide in the garden.

 

3. Give regular tick checks on your pet and comb it frequently.  There are special tick combs available in pet stores which are great for reaching deep into your pets fur coats and manually removing ticks. 


4. By washing mattresses and pillows regularly, controlling ticks will be much easier.  This will also kill fleas at the same time. 

Ticks On Dogs

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Ticks on dogs have only one goal and that is to find a warm blooded being so they can eat. Ticks feed on blood and use heat detection to target their prey.

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Stopticksondogs is dedicated to the elimination of ticks on dogs. Stop ticks on dogs with some well known methods available on line.

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Pug – Ticks on dogs can be uncomfortable for them and actually dangerous for their owners as well. Learn how to avoid ticks on dogs.

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What you can do to control ticks in the environment and on your dog.

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If you have a dog, chances are you are familiar with ticks. You’re also familiar with the many commercials and advertisements that encourage you to purchase products …

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Removing ticks on dogs as soon as they are found is a necessary step to ensure the health of a pet. Many ticks carry diseases such as the notorious Lyme’s Disease.

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Of the 850 species of ticks worldwide, the one posing the biggest threat to our dogs and us is the deer or black-legged tick

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Dogs, Cats and Ticks Dangers of Tick Infestation and Methods of Tick Control

How Does Frontline Kill Ticks?

It is high summer, you and your dog are back from running through the woods. You also may have just have spent time in your backyard which has high grass. You sit down in your easy chair and reach down to pet your dog. You feel a hard bump on his skin about the size of you fingernail. You look further and see a roundish brown insect on your dog. It is attached to the skin. Your dog has a tick. You know you must get rid of it. Ticks can carry bacterial diseases such as the debilitating Lyme disease. You call your veterinarian. The veterinarian recommends Frontline Plus for dogs. You may wonder how this product works and how it will kill the tick.

Frontline and Frontline Plus can be used on dogs off all sizes and there is also a version for cats. Make sure you get the proper one for you pet. They come in distinctive colors on the packaging. It is safe to use to treat puppies and kittens as young as 8 weeks old. Lactating, breading, and pregnant dogs and cats can also be treated.

Frontline is manufactured by Merial. Merial also makes well known medicines to treat heartworm. They are a reputable company. Frontline is part of a newer type of insecticides called synthetic insecticides. They are known to be very effective. The type of insecticide used in Frontline is called an artheterocycles.

Fipronil is the most common ingredient in these synthetic insecticides. The artheterocycles prevent the passing of chlorine through cells in the nervous system of the insect. This results in the paralyzing of the tick. Paralysis means the tick is unable to move. The tick is unable feed. If they cannot feed on blood, they die. The fipronil in Frontline Plus will kill the ticks in their younger stages, like the nymph stage, as well as when they are adults.

In Frontline and Frontline Plus the fipronil is dispersed by the sebaceous oil glands. It becomes spread efficiently and relatively shortly throughout the fur of the pet. This will kill ticks quite effectively. It is reputed to kill all the ticks within 12 hours of treatment.

The treatment is applied by a supplied applicator to the base of the neck. It does not need to be spread manually all over the animal to kill the ticks. It is recommended to wear gloves. The tick does not have to be attached to feel its effects.

After treatment, you will want to check for dead but attached ticks. They may be removed using tweezers. Be careful to not crush the body and release any infected fluids onto yourself or the animal. Drop it and any ticks you suspect are still alive into rubbing alcohol to insure you have killed them.

Frontline Plus will continue to kill ticks for up to one month of application. You can then safely treat them again for another month of protection. This gives a pet owner piece of mind.

Keeping Ticks Out of Your Yard

Deer ticks are most abundant in the woods where hosts for the tick flourish and ticks find high humidity levels necessary for survival. On lawns, most deer ticks (82%) have been recovered within 9 feet of the lawn edge, especially areas adjacent to woods, stonewalls, or ornamental plantings. Fewer ticks are found in the sunny, manicured areas of the lawn. Ticks may also be found in groundcovers such as Pachysandra.

Create a tick safe zone by altering the landscape to increase sunlight, reduce tick habitat and discourage rodent hosts. Create a clearly defined, manicured border. A dry wood chip, tree bark, mulch, or gravel barrier between woods and lawn can reduce tick migration into the lawn. The removal of leaf litter at the lawn perimeter also can help reduce the number of I. scapularis nymphs on the lawn. Landscape modifications include:

• Keep grass mowed.


• Prune trees, mow the lawn, and clear leaf litter and brush, especially along edges of the lawn, stonewalls, and driveways.


• Move play sets away from the woodland edge.


• Restrict groundcover in areas frequented by family.


• Adopt some landscaping practices such as gravel pathways, mulches, decking, stone, tile, and other hardscapes around the home.


• Wildflower meadows, herbal gardens, etc. have very few ticks and may be an acceptable alternative to grass in some areas.

Treating the yard and outdoor kennel area, if any, is an important tool in the arsenal against ticks. There are products containing fenvalerate, that can be used to spray the outdoor area. According to the CDC, Fenvalerate is not harmful to the environment, it is however, toxic to animals, pets, and people, so please use common sense.

Dogs and Ticks | Crozet Gazette

Dogs and Ticks

Posted by Editor on 6/09/09 • Categorized as Gazette Vet •

By John Andersen, DVM

“Claude” is a six-year-old Labrador mix from Crozet. He hit the jackpot when he was adopted from the SPCA into a loving family who spoils him and takes him hiking regularly. One Saturday morning, I got a call from Claude’s mom:

“Claude is really sick. We noticed he wasn’t quite right a few days ago, he was a little sore on one of his front legs and didn’t eat well that night, but we had gone on a long hike and I thought he just overdid it a bit. But yesterday he seemed stiff all over and refused dinner, which is totally unusual. Now this morning he won’t even get up and he just looks like he’s dying.”

I had them bring Claude in right away. We had to bring out a stretcher to get him into the hospital because he wouldn’t even stand up. His left front leg was swollen, his temperature was 104.2 and he just felt terrible, totally “un-Claude.” As it turned out, Claude was suffering from Lyme disease and was feeling great a few days later.

Actually, I was quite suspicious of Lyme disease as soon as I got off the phone with his owner, mainly because we now see it so frequently, and this is the classic presentation. Lyme disease is caused by the bacterium Borrelia burgdorferi, which is transmitted to dogs and people via the bite of an infected tick. The disease gains its name from the town of Lyme, Connecticut, where it was first diagnosed in 1975. Lyme disease is now the fastest spreading infectious disease in the U.S. and has certainly established itself here in central Virginia. In the U.S., Lyme disease is transmitted almost exclusively by blacklegged/deer ticks. And if you’re not up on your tick life cycles, it’s important to know that it’s in the nymph stage ticks that are most likely to bite and transmit Lyme disease. During this stage of their life cycle, ticks measure about 1/16th of an inch! Try finding that on your Black Lab!

Interestingly, 90 percent of dogs who are exposed to Lyme disease through a tick bite will not get sick. Their body’s immune system will naturally fight off an infection. In the 10 percent that do get sick, the majority will present just like Claude with fever, lethargy, and aching joints/lameness. These signs often develop over just one or two days and can become quite severe. As sick as they are, most dogs respond rapidly to a course of antibiotics. They are often dramatically improved in 24 to 48 hours.

Diagnosing Lyme disease often proves difficult in both people and pets and ultimately becomes a judgment call based on history, clinical signs, and lab tests. Most veterinary hospitals have a quick in-house blood test available (which, incidentally, is a combination test with the heartworm test), which is very sensitive at detecting antibodies to Lyme disease. This test often causes confusion however, because being “positive for Lyme disease” does not mean your dog actually has Lyme disease.

Uh … what?

Well, when your dog is “positive for Lyme disease,” it means that your dog was naturally exposed to Lyme disease via a tick bite. His immune system was exposed and made antibodies that will persist in his bloodstream for years. Remember, 90 percent of dogs who are exposed do not ever develop illness. But they will have a positive antibody test.

It has now become prudent protocol in otherwise healthy dogs who have a positive antibody to simply discuss Lyme disease signs, tick prevention, and simply do nothing. And of the 10 percent who do become ill, 90 percent of those will respond rapidly and completely to a simple course of antibiotics. But there is just no way to know which dogs who have antibodies actually have the Lyme organism hiding in their body, waiting to cause illness in a few weeks or months. So again, it’s a judgment call. So far this spring, I’ve been seeing and treating about one or two dogs sick with Lyme disease per week, which is much more than just five years ago.

How can you prevent Lyme disease from becoming a problem with your dog? It’s all about tick control. Products like Frontline and Advantix are great. They kill ticks, but only after they’ve attached. Hopefully the tick dies before it has had time to transmit the disease. But at day 28 of a once-monthly treatment, things can happen. There’s really nothing better than just doing a tick check after you’ve been out in the woods, both on your dog and your kids and yourself. If your dog has had Lyme exposure, there are Lyme-infected ticks where you’ve been, too, and you should always call your doctor if you suspect a family member is showing any signs of Lyme disease.

So, although it should garner a bit more fear than the Crozet Cougar, don’t stop going into the woods or going on walks for fear of Lyme Disease. Just put the Frontline on your dog, do a good tick check, and happy romping!

Contact Dr. Andersen at cvillevet at aol.com.

Tagged as: dogs, Gazette Vet, Lyme disease, ticks, veterinary medicine

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Ticks - external parasites in dogs

At the beginning of warmer spring allow the emergence of a threat to our dog: tick. Along with other external parasites, dog tick can transmit various diseases, with serious consequences. How we react to this danger, they are fighting against ticks and how to keep their dogs healthy and protected? We further propose to make a brief infestation of ticks and dog ticks implications and to suggest remedies against diseases. After all, we want to have healthy and happy dogs with which to fully enjoy the spring.

ENEMY - Ticks are parasitic arthropods that feed on blood that infects living creatures. Being attracted to heat and motion, ticks are “clinging” dog fur often moving and rummaging through vegetation. In areas near forests or those with abundant vegetation, ticks appear and multiply especially in early April and the end of September, because not withstand excessive heat of summer or cold winter. These times of maximum danger to our dogs. In particular the onset of spring, and new owners of dogs of different breeds, we are tempted to spend more time in nature with our canine companions.

SPECIES OF TICKS - Most species of ticks will pass through four life stages – egg, larva, nymph and adult. In all stages, except eggs, ticks need a “host” to feed on blood. Depending on the species, ticks can live from several months to several years and females can deposit thousands of eggs at once. In Europe there are tick species: Ixodes (from Belgium and transmit Lymes disease, including humans), Dermacentor (transmit piroplasmosis), Rhipicephalus sanguineus (transmit Babesia canis and Ehrlichia canis).

ATTACK - Refugees in cooler and wetter areas under the lower leaves of the vegetation, fur dog ticks attach and migrate, preferentially to areas with less body hair. Areas of the body most exposed are dog head, skin folds (at the back, neck or chin – depending on the breed of dog involved), ears and interdigital spaces. Instead chose (a strong blood supply area) ticks bite the dog skin and attaches with special tongs made ​​of wound mouthparts. In the next few hours (up to 20 hours, even!) Ticks are blood sucking animal, and increasing up to 8 times the body.

CONSEQUENCES - The most common diseases caused by ticks include: Babeioza, meningitis the Rocky Mountains, Ehrlichioza and anaplasmosis. Not all ticks transmit diseases, but most, unfortunately, are vectors carriers of severe disease that can affect dogs in the highest degree, leading to paralysis, or, in worst cases, death. Transmitted diseases in dogs infested by ticks is installed in the body fairly quickly, given that pathogens are transmitted by way tick feeds directly into the bloodstream and, hence, reach the most important organs of the animal .

The most visible changes in the general condition of the dog attacked by ticks are:

- The dog is persistently scratching neck, head, ears, and even sometimes challenging wounds;
– Dog loses its appetite, become apathetic and without muscle tone;
– Dog present with diarrhea and fever, is seen in orange color of urine;
– Weak, limp, swollen joints;
– Gums fade young dogs (puppies up to eight months, especially for small dog breeds, apartment dogs).

IDENTIFICATION TICKS - Caress your dog all over the body, paying attention to ears, neck and skin folds. Try to identify any unusual lifting of the skin and examine the dog with a strong light source. Depending on the species and stage of life, a tick is the size of a pencil tip as a small grain or bean. If you live in an area adjacent to the forest should check for the appropriate dog ticks at least once a day.

IMMEDIATE - is recommended to benefit from the assistance of a veterinarian if you find ticks installed on your dog’s body and if you have deductions against parasitic insects. If you already have some experience in raising dogs and i want to give first aid to your friend, initiated the removal of the parasite immediately. It is recommended to wear surgical gloves or disposable ones and tweezers (as in cosmetic kits). You have to grab the tick as close to the point where it attached (there is the head with mouthparts, usually buried in the dog’s skin). Be careful not to squeeze the tick’s body (in this case tick acts as a syringe, pumping the blood back into the infected blood). Pull slowly and firmly parasite leather (without turn tweezers). The dog can choose a small wound that may detach and less to the skin, but this is normal. If your dog bleeding lightly on the wound, then disinfect the area with rubbing alcohol (or at least water and soap). Be careful if the insect was completely detached. Sometimes the mouthparts of the tick remain stuck in the dog’s skin and, over time, can give rise to abscesses. Work with patience, finesse and use a strong light source. Believe not cigarette embers burning techniques tick body or “death” / “stunning” them with oil or paint thinner! You can increase stress and even your dog’s injuries. I risky methods and primitive!

PREVENTION - There are alternative preventive vaccination of dogs against the worst diseases spread by ticks, especially if you live in an infested area (climate change in recent years have favored the multiplication of these insects parasitic disturbing). However, your vet will give you competent advice in this regard. Ehrlichioza and Lymes disease is treated with antibiotics to combat Piroplasma specific medication, and Advantage (containing imidacloprid), Frontline (containing fipronil), selamectin and permethrin are effective drugs against ticks (in all three stages of development). You will recognize prescriptions issued and are especially recommended by specialists. Your veterinarian can advise you regarding specific recommendations about the frequency of application of a product or another (depending on geographic area and climate, bathing and swimming habits of the dog, and other details).

Finding And Removing Ticks

The best way to find ticks on your pet is to run your hands over the whole body. Check for ticks every time your pet comes back from an area you know is inhabited by ticks. Ticks attach most frequently around the pet’s head, ears, neck, and feet, but are by no means restricted to those areas.

If you find an embedded tick, do not simply grab its body and pull, as the tick’s barbed hypostome (feeding tube) may break off and remain in the bite. Applying chemicals or flame to the tick is not a good idea because, while it may make the tick let go, it can also cause the tick to spit blood back into the wound, possibly sending disease germs into the bloodstream in the process.

The best way to remove a tick is to use rubbing alcohol and a pair of hemostats or sharp tweezers. Dab rubbing alcohol on the tick, and then use the hemostats or tweezers to take hold of the tick as close to the dog’s skin as you can; pull slowly and steadily. Try to grab it where its mouth-parts enter the skin and pull gently without letting go. It will eventually releases its hold by withdrawing its barbed mouth-part from the skin.

Try not to leave the tick’s head embedded in the dog’s skin. Do not apply hot matches, petroleum jelly, turpentine, nail polish, or just rubbing alcohol alone (the tick must be pulled out after application of alcohol) because these methods do not remove the ticks and they are not safe for your pet.

Once you have removed a tick, do not try to crush it – unengorged ticks are flat and very hard to crush, while engorged ticks will burst and release blood. Instead, you should flush the tick down a drain or seal it in a jar. (It can be useful to keep the tick to show to a doctor in case you or your pet gets sick from the bite.) Some people kill and preserve ticks by dropping them into bottles of rubbing alcohol; if you do this, do not use the alcohol in that bottle for anything else.

After you pull a tick off, there will be a local area of inflammation that could look red, crusty, or scabby. The tick’s attachment causes irritation. The site can get infected; if the pet is scratching at it, it is more apt to get infected. A mild antibiotic, such as over-the-counter triple antibiotic ointment can help, but usually is not necessary. The inflammation should go down within a week. If it stays crusty and inflamed longer than a week, it might have become infected.

Although ticks can transmit diseases, they are usually nothing more than a nuisance. The best approach is to prevent them from embedding, and once embedded, to remove them quickly. As long as you stay on top of the situation, your pets should cruise right through the tick season with no problems.

sources: Veterinary Partner and Regional Pest Management

Natural Pest Control - Fleas and Ticks

Ah – summer. And along with the great weather and days at the beach and gardening and all the good stuff, we have -  these guys…

…and with them, inevitably, to one degree or another, comes this.

this

and this

No one is happy, least of all your dog.

To make my position clear at the start; I avoid pesticides at all cost. I seek always to “First Do No Harm”. However, I will also not leave an allergic, miserable animal suffering if natural therapies are not working. If a dog has a flea allergy and is miserable, I will use one round of a topical veterinary pesticide – yep, that’s right – and get him or her out of misery. Dogs with flea allergy can develop hot spots, can suffer miserably with even a couple of fleas, let alone an infestation. The products are unpleasant but effective and I have never had to use them 6 months running as the package insists. I’ve done one treatment – ONLY with a healthy dog, not pups, seniors or dogs with health conditions – and that buys us some breathing room. Each case has to be addressed individually; some people swear by DE (diatomaceous earth) – I won’t use it because I have an asthmatic cat and am very sensitive myself to any respiratory irritant. (More on the pros and cons of all these therapies, to follow). Some people swear by garlic, but I have never seen it work ALONE – most will say “along with a good diet and etc etc, garlic helped reduce fleas” – well, who can say it was the garlic? Studies have repeatedly shown no effect from garlic, and feeding it in sufficient quantity to alleviate a flea issue poses problems of it’s own.

Neither do I like brewer’s yeast (can cause bloating and gas) additional B1 (won’t hurt in moderate doses but again, not a single study has ever shown efficacy)  – all that said, I have found things that help, are gentler than Advantage, but they require diligence and application, or we’re back to scratching all night long.
To start; if there is an infestation you have to clean out the whole house – vaccuum, and treat with SOMETHING, and if DE works for you, it’s worth a try. If it’s a minor issue and your dog is not overly miserable, just scratching periodically, I’d wash him well with a good natural shampoo, and there are many kinds available now, or you can make your own; flea comb daily (you can get flea combs at any pet store) treat the area he sleeps in with herbal flea powder, and make a spray with apple cider vinegar and any number of herbs – I use (any combination of) yarrow, calendula, rose, lavender, sage, nettle, basil, thyme and St. John’s wort with *maybe* 2 drops of rose geranium oil to a liter – but I don’t like essential oils anywhere the dog can lick them off, so I often just macerate the dry herbs in vinegar for a couple of weeks and strain. If you spray it make sure you don’t get any in his eyes! I also use acv rinses after bathing and sometimes make a large herbal infusion to pour over him as a last rinse after bathing.

For me, good diet has to be the foundation of a healthy dog, so make sure you’re feeding one of the following;
1) a properly balanced home made raw diet
2) a properly balanced home made cooked diet
3) a premium kibble with fresh food enhancements( tripe, cooked veggies, sardines, yogurt)

Address any food intolerances/sensitivity your dog may have. Feed as wholesome a diet as possible but be aware( how can you forget, as I’m forever going on about this)  that fresh foods alone won’t necessarily provide a full balanced diet; carnivore nutrition is different from ours and your dog will not thrive on a home made diet that is low in calcium, iodine, D3, zinc etc (as many of these diets are). If you’re already feeding a premium food or home made diet, consider adding a probiotic, something along the lines of spirulina, a general herbal tonic,  a little apple cider vinegar as long as there is no history of either stones or crystals in the urine, and some fish oils (not cod liver oil, but any good quality fish body oil).

Some more on dietary supplementation here:
http://thepossiblecanine.wordpress.com/2011/05/22/supplements-101/

I consider most dogs with flea allergy to be “hot” and like to use fish oils, anti inflammatory and cooling herbs throughout the year and provide some immune system regulation as well. Many dogs who run hot and react like this also have sensitive bowels, are reactive or just generally hyper, and can be helped with TTouch and massage as well as diet, supplements and herbs.

If you have to resort to Frontline or Advantage just do it the once and use liver support right after it – I like milk thistle with burdock, and chlorella, and a lowered protein/higher fiber diet for about 3 weeks following a treatment. Homeopathic Thuja may help as well although this is not my own area of expertise.

Takeaway message; a “cooling” diet may help, and we will talk a lot more about using foods to heat or cool the body – but most definitely make sure your dog’s diet is optimal. Adding in Omega3 fatty acids in the form of fish body or krill oils can help. If you do use a pesticide, detox your dog – or put more accurately, feed and supplement to support the body’s ability to excrete the toxin.

GARLIC – #1 Natural remedy

Again – a lot of people will say, garlic is the solution – and I’d just add, you can try adding a LITTLE to your dogs’ food, but some considerations (and please know there have been many studies showing no effect, in controlled scenarios).

1) garlic can irritate the stomach, so use with food only, please
2) Smaller dogs , I would avoid it altogether (under 20 pounds)
3) The problem with garlic and onions is the initiation of something called Heinz body anemia; you do have to feed a fair quantity to cause this illness but it is life threatening:
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=1&aid=2414

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15634869

Here’s a review of the standard treatments (natural) for flea treatments – I tend to agree with much of this, except the “perceived toxicity” of veterinary treatments – well, hhhmm, they ARE toxic! But so can be essential oils and garlic etc, and much less effective. I try never to use the Advantage, but if my dog is scratching himself raw (as was the case with my own dog two years ago) I get him some relief and then address the situation as non-toxically as possible.
http://csuvets.colostate.edu/pain/Articlespdf/Natural%20Approaches%20for%20Flea%20Control.pdf

My view on garlic is simple. It can upset the stomach fed raw – it *can* cause serious illness in vulnerable dogs, and it’s a potent blood thinner which may or may not be desirable for your canine friend. My sense of it is, the amount required to be repellant to FLEAS is too much for the average dog to tolerate. Whenever I’m considering a supplement or herb I assess the individual dog, and do a risk/benefit analysis – garlic for me doesn’t make sense. Most people who use garlic are also feeding very high quality diets and not over vaccinating etc, so the good immune system and ability to repel an infestation is not related to the garlic, but to the genetic makeup and overall health of the individual.

But to be clear; Frontline and Advantage are NOT INNOCUOUS and I don’t like to EVER use them – but I will, one dose, to get a miserably suffering dog out of that state. Allergic dogs only. All others can be handled – more or less – with diligent attention to the environment, diet, and regular bathing, rinsing and flea combing.

Gameplan

1) You have to keep cleaning the bedding, vaccuming floorboards, daily.  Rent a  steam cleaner if you can. Diatomaceous Earth works well for some folks and others don’t agree. I wouldn’t use it if you have asthma or any lung sensitivity. But many swear by it.

2) Health of the dog, as in strong immunity which starts with a wholesome and balanced diet, is key.

3) I don’t much  like garlic, brewer’s yeast or B1, because I don’t think they work. But of these, B1 is probably the most harmless. I like to give this as a complex, so if you’re going to try that, add a plain B50, not a stress formula,not a time-released. Just a Bcomp 50. If it works – let me know.

4) Wash and fleacomb your dog regularly. You can use herbal rinses, lemon water, or herb-infused apple cider vinegar, or plain acv.Make sure your dog doesn’t have raw open sore areas before you pour vinegar or lemon on her – in these cases, I use  rose, calendula and lavender with a little bit of aloe vera. I generally just take a Tablespoon or two of each,  place in a Mason jar or any container that holds about a liter of water, and pour boiling water overtop. Cover, let sit four hours, then rinse the dog. With safe, cooling and vulnerary herbs like these you can make it stronger, and do it often. Marshmallow leaves, sage leaves, a little yarrow and mugwort are all nice ideas too and won’t burn the skin.NOTE: please try even these mild herbs INDIVIDUALLY at first; experience has taught me to make an infusion of one at a time, and then swab a little on the tummy. I’ve rarely ever seen a reaction, but I HAVE seen a couple, and better you know that before you pour the offending herb all over your already itchy dog!

5) The same herbs that we use in the water-infusions can be powdered and mixed with arrowroot and clay to create a safe flea repellant powder. This can be sprinkled on bedding, or combed through the dog’s fur right after bathing and drying. Because he or she will probably lick the powder, make sure you use only gentle herbs you know your dog does not react to. Again, I use calendula, rose, lavender, sage and yarrow, often with a little bit of  mugwort. I am wary of Essential Oils, although most dogs are probably ok with very small amounts of the milder oils (think flowers, mostly!) I weigh the probably benefit against the possible cost – and usually, I leave them out. I NEVER use them near anyplace a cat will sleep – and in my house, that’s pretty much everywhere.

6) Search your dog thoroughly after any outing where he might have picked up a tick. Then remove it. Remove it properly:http://www.vet.bc.ca/site/view/54224_Removeticks.pml

Now, as I am behind schedule and wanted to get this up for everyone before Christmas, I’m going to wrap up with a few Links – not what I normally like to do, but I’ve dug up some good ones for you.

The first one is from a DVM, she explains the flea cycle very well, so that’s important. She’s also a proponent of DE, garlic, brewer’s yeast and B1. All of which I have not seen great results with – but no reason you can’t try!

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Sustainable-Farming/1985-05-01/Natural-Flea-Control.aspx

Cedarcide: when I asked on my discussion (Facebook) group about what people are using, this product came up over and over. I decided to take a look, and I think it;s worth considering. http://www.cedarcidestore.com/Remove_Ticks.html

Nematode: Jury’s  out on this one, but I thought I’d include it for your consideration: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Sustainable-Farming/1985-05-01/Natural-Flea-Control.aspx

In summary; I still consider Dr. Pitcairn’s article to be one of the most balanced, with regard to natural flea control. And, he likes garlic and brewer’s yeast. Maybe I’m out numbered, but I remain cautious. I’ll give the last word to the good Doctor.

http://www.canadasguidetodogs.com/health/fleas_pitcairn.htm

And I wish you a  happy, flea-and-tick free, summer!

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Keeping Ticks Off Your Pet

The best way to keep ticks off your pet is to regularly inspect your pet whenever he or she comes in from outdoors, and remove any ticks you might find. You might also want to take a look at our post on keeping ticks out of your yard. In addition, there are a number of products on the market that can be used to discourage and repel these pesky critters, and here’s the scoop on that:

If your pet goes outside regularly, you can use some type of residual insecticide. Frontline (fipronil) is a liquid applied to the skin between a dog’s shoulders that discourages ticks from staying or implanting. Revolution (selamectin) is labeled for one kind of tick. A permethrin spray can be used on dogs (but not in cats, for whom it can be fatal) as a tick repellent and killer.

If you use a liquid spray treatment, cats and skittish dogs typically prefer a pump bottle because of the noise from aerosol cans. Avoid topical powders if your pet has a respiratory condition. Powders are fairly easy to apply, but they can make a real mess, and they often contain permethrin. Shampoos are useful only for ticks that are already on your pet.

An amitraz collar, such as PreventicÃ’, has some efectiveness against ticks. Like Frontline, amitraz cannot keep all ticks off your pet, but it discourages ticks from implanting or staying on. The collar might be somewhat more water resistant than a residual insecticide, so if your dog likes to swim, the collar might be a better choice.

Flea combs can be used to help remove ticks. Wash your pet’s bed frequently.

Some people use a topical spray, but don’t realize they should not use more than one insecticide or repellent. Doubling the amount of anti-tick product, or using two at once, may cause toxicity problems. DEET, found in many over-the-counter insecticides, is toxic to pets. Any spray insecticide labeled for use on clothing should not be sprayed directly on pets.

ticks | Dogs and Pups

Ticks and Fleas are the most common and most important ectoparasites of companion animals throughout the world. Next to these are mites, lice, sand flies and mosquitoes as nuisance ectoparasites. Here’s more on fleas and ticks on dogs and cats. …

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Icky, icky, TICKS

Tickety, tickety, BOO!

If you’ve been out walking lately in Niagara; you’ve probably see some hitchhikers on your dog. Maybe found one crawling across the floor? Maybe found one in your bed? Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

My kids call them vampire spiders, and they look something like this;

 I’m not a “Wiki as main source of information” kinda gal; but there is some good basic info. with links; and of course google is your friend; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tick.

It is only March (albeit a wet + hot + dry + wet + hot), March; but they are already out crawling around. 

From this website; http://www.newswise.com/articles/for-ticks-and-lyme-disease-2012-might-be-a-very-bad-year Paul Curtis, a professor of natural resources and an Extension wildlife specialist at Cornell University, has coordinated the university’s Wildlife Damage Management Program during the past 18 years.

“With the warm, early spring, ticks are already active in central New York State, and this will likely be a bad tick year.
“In areas with abundant oaks and mice, it appears tick numbers will be very high based on data collected at the Cary Institute of Ecosystem Studies. The current mild winter weather does not cause a rise in tick populations, however, it can change tick behavior. Adult ticks, which are slightly larger than a sesame seed, are normally dormant in winter. Ticks start to seek a host for a blood meal whenever temperatures rise well above freezing. The warm winter of 2011-12 induced earlier than normal tick activity.
“People should be especially aware when outdoors during the May-July season for nymphal black-legged ticks.

Areas in the Niagara Region that are home to the black-legged ticks are;

Areas Where Black-legged Ticks are Commonly Found

There are areas in Ontario that are considered high risk with an established tick population. However, it is important to note that you can be bitten by a tick anywhere outside of these high risk areas as well. These areas include:

• Long Point Provincial Park


• Rondeau Provincial Park


• Turkey Point Provincial Park


• Point Pelee National Park


• Prince Edward Point National Wildlife Area


• St. Lawrence Islands National Park


• Wainfleet Bog Conservation Area

for more information, check out the Niagara Region health website.

Some preventative measures;

• groom your hairy dog. Granted hair can slow the tick’s progression from fur to skin; but and it’s a bit BUT, once it gets to the skin ~ how on your doodle’s coat; are you ever going to see it? 


• flea comb your pet after every jaunt outside, inspecting armpits, groin, base of ears, under jaw, belly and of course on their back


• groom your cat — if your cat is outside/inside; maybe you should stop blaming your dog; there is a very real possibility your cat is bringing them in the house; as they sit in the brush waiting for mice/birds/etc.


• flea/tick treatments — check labels; many kill ticks too (after biting) most are not a repellant


• check this website out for a natural tick repellant — uses a carrier oil, an essential oil (either rose geranium or american pennyroyal) DO NOT USE ESSENTIAL OIL PRODUCTS ON CATS — and be careful using essential oil products on dogs that are groomed by cats – no American Pennyroyal oil in a house with pregnant animals or humans
  


• check yourself and your kids; use either a mirror or monkey-check each other — remember to remind children to check their groin


• save your ticks — in a bottle — sounds really gross; but I guess you can have them checked for Lyme at your local health service — yuck


• put clothing in the wash immediately – perhaps remove clothing away from carpeted and sleeping areas — ticks can survive without a blood meal, on your floor, in your dirty clothes, in your bedding


• remove ticks as soon as possible; the less time (24-36 hours are needed) they are one you feeding, the less time they have to pass on the bacterium responsible for Lyme disease


• when removing ticks that are embedded in skin, use tweezers to carefully grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible and pull slowly upward, avoiding twisting or crushing the tick. 

• apparently they puke if burned or smothered; so don’t let that tick puke on you OR in you; blech


• stay out of long grass, ticks don’t jump or fly, they have sticky legs; so as your pet brushes against them; they will attach to your warmer pet; stay to groomed areas; lessen your chance of picking up “vampire spiders”

 Happy walking! A little bug control goes a long way.

How to Get Rid of Ticks On Dogs?

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Dog ticks can be a persistent problem, because it isn’t enough to get rid of the ticks present on your dog. Ticks will lay their eggs wherever your dog goes and so you also have to treat carpets, chairs and dog bedding to ensure you deal with the problem completely. Otherwise, you may eliminate the ticks that you can actually find on your dog’s body, but then find that soon enough your dog has ticks again. This is because the eggs that you failed to get rid of, mature and seek out a food source; namely your dog.

Ticks are a nasty thing. They have an incredible ability to stick on the skin of your dog and it’s almost impossible to remove them. Big-sized ticks are easily spotted and physically removed. However, that may not be the best solution and what you can see are probably the adult ticks only.

Hard to remove

If there is one thing that evolution have taught ticks, that is how to stay on your dog, forever. It is not surprising that if you try to brush them off or manually remove them off your dog, you see it is not as easy as you think. Thankfully, we have an arsenal of chemicals that can ‘tickle’ the ticks off your dog.

Multiple ways to get rid of them

You may find that it takes a combination of treatments to successfully get rid of a tick problem. To get rid of the ticks that are present on your dog, there are various shampoos, powders, sprays, collars and tablets that might be able to eradicate the adult ticks that are feeding on your dog, causing your dog to scratch. The effectiveness of each will depend on how bad the tick infestation is and how likely it is your dog will come into contact with ticks again. Even when you treat your house with tick-specific products, you can’t prevent your dog from coming into contact with other dogs that might have ticks.

Dog shampoos

It takes time for all the ticks to die and so you have to be vigilant. If you see your dog scratching, you may have to examine the dog and squeeze the offending tick between your fingers. Obviously, this isn’t a long-term solution to the problem. You could try washing your dog with tick treatment, but most dog shampoos are not strong enough to actually kill the ticks. They may leave your dog smelling pleasant, but the chances are you will find that the blood-sucking ticks are still bedded into your dog’s skin.

Tick collar for dogs are effective but are limited to the dog’s neck area. Some of the popular brands on the market for tick collar includes Bio Spot, Zodiac, Adams Plus and Preventic.

Dog tick collar

Similarly, the effectiveness of tick collars is limited. They usually have a distinctive smell that ticks apparently dislike. However, ticks are tough creatures to get rid of and, often, a scented tick collar is unlikely to do anything other than annoy your dog who, if not scratching because of ticks will be scratching because of the collar!

Things that work

Sprays, creams, lotions, drops and powders seem to have more success at killing ticks, depending on which you go for. Adding a couple of tick drops between the shoulder blades of your dog can reduce the number of ticks living there and eventually kill them, though you may still find the odd one. Similarly, oral treatment can prove successful, though you will have to take a trip to your vet in order to get the necessary tablets. After taking a tick tablet, the ticks will no longer be able to breed on your dog, thus bringing the tick infestation to an end.

Tick eggs

There are also sprays that you can use on carpets and furniture and powders that you can sprinkle on to carpets before vacuuming them, which will also help to remove tick eggs. Although you may not be able to get rid of every single tick, you at least reduce the likelihood of him or her becoming a major problem. A tick infestation isn’t particularly pleasant for your dog and it can be inconvenient for you. Although ticks feed mainly on dogs, you may sometimes discover bites around your ankles. Thus, even if you didn’t notice your dog scratching, bites around your ankle should give you a clue that your dog has ticks.

It doesn’t stop there

You can’t ignore a tick problem, because it will only get worse. Unfortunately, you are never going to completely get rid of ticks,  especially if your dog is active and enjoys going outside, but you should be able to prevent the tick population from spiraling out of control.

More on dog’s health

1. Get rid of worms in dogs


2. Removing dog urine smell

How Ticks are Dangers for Dogs

Pests That Feed on Your Pets

The soft, warm fur of dogs and cats provides the perfect environment for fleas and ticks. These insects feed on your pet’s blood and can cause health problems ranging from allergic reactions to tapeworm infections to serious tick-borne illnesses. Both fleas and ticks are more common during the warmer months. But there are steps you can take to ward off these pests any time of year.

Flea Warning Signs: Dogs

• Flea droppings (dark specks) in the fur.


• Flea eggs (white specks) in the fur.


• Excessive licking or scratching.


• Scabs or hot spots on the skin.

Flea Warning Signs: Cats

The easiest way to find fleas on a cat is to check the belly. You may see the fleas themselves — small dark spots that move — or their droppings, which look like specks of dirt. Excessive scratching and hair loss are also signs that fleas may be feasting on your feline. Ctenocephalides felis is the most troublesome species in North America for both cats and dogs.

Fleas and Anemia

Because fleas can take in 15 times their own weight in blood, they can drain a significant amount from your pet. Dogs or cats that lose too much blood may develop anemia, a dangerous drop in the number of their red blood cells. Puppies and kittens are especially vulnerable. Signs of flea-induced anemia include pale gums and lack of energy.

Flea Allergy Dermatitis

Fleas are the most common cause of skin disease in dogs and cats. When a flea bites, it injects saliva into your pet’s skin. This may trigger an allergic reaction called flea allergy dermatitis. Signs include intense itching, hair loss (especially just in front of the tail), scabs, and red, irritated skin, which may lead to skin infections.

How Do Pets Get Fleas?

Pets can easily pick up fleas with any time spent outdoors. Indoor cats are at risk even if they just go out on the patio or share their home with a dog. Female fleas can lay an egg every hour, leading to an infestation in a matter of days.

Fleas and People

Fleas are content to drink human blood as well and can easily jump from your pet’s fur or bedding to your skin. Some people develop a severe reaction to flea bites. Intense itching can lead to scratching and skin infections. To avoid flea bites, it’s essential to keep your pets and your home flea-free. For every flea you see on your pet, vets estimate there are 100 more in your house.

Fleas and Your Home

When fleas lay eggs on your pet, some eggs may fall off and hatch on your carpet, bed, or other furniture. The new fleas then target you and your pet, feed on your blood, and lay more eggs. Carpets and humid areas are favorites for fleas. So replacing carpeting and keeping your home as dry as possible may help take away the welcome mat for fleas.

Tick Warning Signs

You can feel ticks while petting your cat or dog, and you can see them with the naked eye. They most often attach near the head, neck, ears, or paws. On cats, they are typically found around the ears and eyes. Ticks can carry dangerous diseases, and it doesn’t take long for a pet to pick up the disease while a tick is feeding. If you find a tick on your pet, try to remove it as soon as possible.

Safe, Effective Tick Removal

Skip gasoline, nail polish, petroleum jelly, alcohol, or a hot match. These methods can force infected fluids back into the bite. Instead:

• Use gloves or tissue to cover your hands.


• Grasp it with tweezers from the side, by its head, close to the skin.


• Pull straight up. Don’t twist.


• Don’t squeeze (or pop!) the bloated belly.

Wash the bite area and your hands. Mouth parts that remain rarely cause serious problems. But if you’re concerned, call your vet.

How Do Pets Get Ticks?

Ticks crawl onto tall grass and shrubs and wait for a host to walk by. They can wait for a year without feeding. Dogs are most likely to pick up ticks while walking in the woods or high grass from spring through fall. Outdoor cats can pick up ticks in the same way. Ticks are more common in warm climates and certain wooded areas of the Northeast.

Brown Dog Tick

The brown dog tick, also called the kennel tick, is common across the U.S. It is unique among ticks because it can thrive indoors, making it a nuisance for kennels and homes with multiple dogs. The adult tick is reddish-brown and typically attaches around the ears or between a dog’s toes. This tick rarely bites people, but may be a health threat to your pet. It carries ehrlichiosis and other serious diseases that affect dogs.

Deer Tick

Deer ticks feed on many types of mammals, including people. The adults are reddish-brown and thrive in wooded areas of the Northeast and Midwest. They are dangerous because they can transmit Lyme disease to dogs and people. Lyme disease can cause fever and joint pain and, occasionally, serious kidney disease in dogs.

American Dog Tick

One of the most common ticks is the American dog tick, which feeds on people as well as dogs. It’s easy to spot the females because they have a large silver spot behind the head, and they swell to the size of a small grape after feeding. These ticks can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever, but only if they are attached for at least 5-20 hours. This disease can be fatal in dogs and may cause serious symptoms in people.

Signs of Tick-Borne Diseases

Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and ehrlichiosis cause similar symptoms in dogs, including:

• Loss of appetite


• Fever


• Swollen lymph nodes


• Joint swelling or pain

These diseases can have serious complications, so prompt treatment is essential. Tick-borne diseases are rare in cats.

Lyme Disease Vaccine for Dogs

There is a vaccine to protect against Lyme disease in dogs, but it is recommended only for pets in high-risk areas. It is usually given in two doses with a yearly booster. It’s best to ask your vet if the vaccine is appropriate for your pet.

Other Tick Concerns in Dogs

In addition to transmitting diseases, ticks can cause other health problems in dogs, including:

• Blood loss


• Anemia


• Skin irritation or infection


• Tick paralysis

Tick paralysis refers to muscle weakness caused by a toxin produced by certain ticks. Most dogs recover quickly once the ticks are removed.

Ticks and People

People are susceptible to many of the same tick-borne diseases that affect dogs. Lyme disease is probably the best known, with one of the first symptoms being a bull’s-eye rash. You can’t catch tick-borne diseases directly from your pet, but you can be bitten by the same ticks. You may also be exposed by touching a tick’s blood while removing the parasite from your pet.

Ticks and Your Home

Ticks prefer warm, grassy areas and may thrive in unruly sections of your yard. The brown dog tick can also live and reproduce inside your home. Its favorite hiding spots include cracks, curtains, under rugs and furniture, and behind radiators.

Fighting Pests: Shampoos

Flea and tick shampoos are mainly useful for killing the fleas and ticks that are already on your pet. They are less effective at prevention. You can buy the shampoo without a prescription, but be sure to follow the directions carefully. You need to cover the animal’s entire body and wait 10 minutes before rinsing.

Fighting Pests: Collars & Alternatives

Flea collars can be effective at warding off fleas and ticks, but they should never be worn by puppies or kittens. The Natural Resources Defense Council has also raised concerns about possible health risks for humans. One study found that residue from some types of flea collars may pose a risk to children and adults who touch their pets. The organization suggests using oral flea treatments as an alternative.

Fighting Pests: Tablets

Oral flea treatments, such as tablets, are available for dogs and cats, but these do not work against ticks. One type, called Capstar, is a quick fix that kills adult fleas for a 24-hour period. Other medications keep flea eggs from hatching and are given once a month. Some flea medications require a prescription. Check with your vet to see which treatment is right for your pet.

Fighting Pests: Topicals

Topical treatments are applied to your dog or cat’s back and are highly effective for an entire month. Some topicals kill fleas and ticks, while others target fleas and their eggs. Brand names include Advantage, Advantix, Revolution, and Frontline. Be sure to buy the right product for your pet and follow the instructions carefully.

Are Topical Treatments Safe?

The EPA has been investigating safety concerns surrounding topical flea and tick treatments. The agency has found that incorrect use of these products is a major cause of adverse reactions. Common mistakes include treating a cat with a product intended for dogs or using a large dog dose on a small dog. Check with your vet if you have any doubts about which dose is right for your pet.

‘Green’ Flea and Tick Remedies

Some people feed their pets brewer’s yeast or garlic in hopes of creating an odor that will ward off fleas. But there is no scientific evidence to support this practice. Even worse, garlic can be toxic to both dogs and cats. One “green” strategy that does work: the flea comb. Flea combs are completely nontoxic and offer an effective way to remove fleas from pets that can’t take medication.

Dangerous Natural Remedies

Several natural flea and tick remedies can cause severe reactions in cats and dogs. These include:

• Geranium


• Lavender


• Eucalyptus


• Pennyroyal oil


• Garlic and onion

Check with your vet before giving your pet any type of herbal remedy.

Should You Use a Fogger?

Insect foggers, sometimes called bug bombs, can kill large amounts of fleas at once. These devices use strong pesticides and are only recommended for severe infestations. You and your pets must leave your home while the fogger is working. Follow the directions to determine when it is safe to return. Using too many foggers at once or returning home too soon can pose a health risk to you and your pets.

Keeping the Home Pest-Free

The first defense is to make your yard inhospitable to fleas and ticks. Mow the lawn regularly, trim shrubs, rake leaves, and keep garbage covered so it won’t attract rodents. Inside the home, vacuum carpets often with a rotary brush or beater bar. Mop hardwood floors with detergent every week. And wash all bedding frequently.

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