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2013年9月20日星期五

Flea-control product glues dog to inside of crate

By Gina SpadaforiOctober 8, 2009

From Edie Lau and the VIN News Service, this odd report:


A veterinarian presented with a peculiar case of a poodle stuck in its crate last week traced the problem to the pet’s spot-on flea treatment.


Residue from the product Advantage, which was applied between the poodle’s shoulders, somehow came in contact with the plastic base of the animal’s crate, dissolving the plastic and causing it to adhere to the dog’s belly.


When the dog wouldn’t come out of its crate the next morning, its concerned owner brought the dog, crate and all, to Dr. Tej Dhaliwal of North Town Veterinary Hospital in Ontario, Canada. Following two hours of sleuthing, Dhaliwal concluded that benzyl alcohol, an inactive ingredient in Advantage, was to blame.


Bayer Animal Health, maker of Advantage, acknowledged that the flea treatment was the likely culprit and offered to pay the owner’s veterinary bill, compensate him for loss of salary and replace the crate, Dhaliwal said.


Bob Walker, a spokesman for Bayer in the United States, confirmed that Advantage contains benzyl alcohol, which reacts with certain plastics. He said he consulted with colleagues in veterinary services and was told, “We know it can happen, but we’ve never seen it.”


Walker said a lead veterinarian in the department thought that most of the veterinary community was aware of the potential for the product to react with plastic. Walker said that he personally had not heard of such a thing before. He added, “My counsel would be, if you’re not aware, you need to be aware.”



Hi,

Please watch this video and for more info, you can go to the site and read the comments too at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_uqBjvy7YI






So use products like Frontine or Advantage, or those recommended by your vet.


Take care!


David



Hi,

Dr. Eric Barchas, DVM, wrote the following on What is the Best Way to Remove a Tick From my Pet?


I found it interesting information so I extracted part of it as follows :


“One day in class Dr. Patricia Conrad, parasitologist and expert in the field, described the best way to remove a tick. I wish I had known it sooner. I find that it removes entire ticks about 90% of the time.


Here, according to Dr. Conrad, is the best way to remove a tick from your pet:


Grasp the tick firmly with hemostats (aka tweezers) as close to the skin as possible. Pull gently but firmly straight away from the skin until the tick comes out. Do not twist. Avoid grasping the tick’s abdomen. This can cause regurgitation of stomach contents into your pet, increasing the likelihood of Lyme disease, Ehrlichiosis, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, and other scary tick-borne diseases.


Some other points: tick prevention is better than tick removal. In my experience, Frontline is the tick preventative with the best safety and efficacy profile. No tick preventative is 100% effective.”


Hopefully, you do not have to experience removing any tick yourself and prevention should be the choice of the day instead.


Frontline is definitely a proven product so do give it a try.


David



Hi,

I came across this gadget called Tick Twister and it seems quite a cool tool to remove the tick.


Have a look at the video below and the reviews at Amazon too.






If you can view the video, go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnD6x0svOJE


Customers feedback can be seen at http://tinyurl.com/djun3r


I would like to get one too if easily available here.


However, I would rather use Frontline regularly to prevent any fleas or ticks invasion on my dogs.


Read my earlier posting on how to get rid and prevent flea or ticks infestation using Frontline at http://removetickfromdogandtreatment.blogspot.com/2008/05/how-to-treat-tick-problem.html


Prevention is better than cure!


David



Hi,

You can download 2 eBooks for FREE at my other site at


FREE Dog eBooks


Hope you will find the information useful as I found them on the Internet.


Have a good day with your dogs…!


David


=================================================


Please visit my other website for photos and videos of my dogs.


Thank you.



Hi,

How are you and your dogs getting on?


I just bought another box of Frontline for Jack n Ruby and I did a short video clip to share with you on how to apply Frontline on them.


Jack n Ruby do not have any fleas and ticks for months but I still apply Frontline as a preventive measure.


They can still get fleas or ticks when I walk them as they can get it from the bushes or contact with other dogs as fleas and ticks can jump from one dog to another.


I may not follow the cycle of application so closely; ie I apply every 4-5 months instead of 3 months.


So have a look at this short video and I hope it helps…..





You may want to read my earlier posting on the use of Frontline on my dogs at
http://removetickfromdogandtreatment.blogspot.com/2008/05/how-to-treat-tick-problem.html


Regards


David



I have indicated that I removed the ticks by hand but you may read that a tweezer is used to remove the tick and that to ensure the head of the tick is removed and if bleeding occur, apply some antiseptic cream. So far, I do not have any problems removing the ticks by hand.

If you are not comfortable to do it by hand or tweezer, then I suggest that you just apply the Frontline or equivalent and let it kill the ticks and that they would dropped off the body when dead.


I just read a dog book and it mentioned that there is only one tick found here in Singapore, called the Brown Dog Tick, as shown in my photos. The ticks are from my 2 dogs.


There is an American tick that cause the ROcky Mountain Spotted Fever and it is potentially fatal to humans.


There is also an Australian tick that could cause paralysis in dogs and humans.


It was also mentioned that the tick may occassionaly bite human but it is not able to suck our blood…?


So there you are…….


I hope you have found my experience relevant and of help to you.


Take care,


David



You still need to continue to do body searches on your dog to look for any ticks during and after the application of Frontline or equivalent.

Typically, if your dog is an indoor dog, it is unlikely to get tick or flea infestation. However, when you take your dog out for walks in the woods or meet other dogs during the walks, there is a possiblity a tick or two may jump over to your dog.


I have heard from friends that their dogs after spending a night or two at the vet clinic, their dogs caught some ticks. Similar, when they sent them to pet hotel when they need to travel overseas and they do not want to leave their dogs alone in the house or apartement.


I believe my dogs have been free of tick or fleas for the past few years until I took my dogs to unfamiliar areas in my housing estate recently. Since then, I have avoided that part of my estate and stick to my regular route.


The pet shop that sold me Forntline, also recommended a flea and tick spray to apply aorund the areas that my dogs are kept. In this case, the car porch and the garden so I sprayed a bit of the liquid in the event the ticks and fleas dropped off my dogs and went into hiding…..ha…ha…ha…


So as part of your on-going grooming regime, you should watch our for recurrence of any ticks invasion or uninvited ticks or fleas after a walk or encounters with other dogs during your walks.


You need not be paranoid but I am sure you play with your dog daily so just run your hand over their body or fur and do what I have explained earlier on as body search.


The idea is to detect their presence and take action immediately to prevent a huge tick infestation by breaking up its breeding cycle.


Good luck and take good care of your dog….


David




A few years ago, I was recommended to use Frontline by a friend and I found that it worked well for my dogs. I have not been using it until I discovered a few ticks on my 2 dogs a few weeks ago.

There are other equivalent to Frontline but based on the discussions in the forums, Frontline seems to be one of the proven option.


You need to know the weight of your dog as you should be buying the right strength of Frontline for your dog; eg 0-10 kg, 10-20 kg,… Read and follow the instructions closely for it to be effective.


In short, you apply the liquid in the capsule or container on the back of the neck of the dog where it cannot lick it. The liquid will be absorded and spread through the skin around the body. So the fleas and ticks will be killed or posioned and dropped off. This will kill the breeding cycle of the fleas and ticks. It should last for a month and you may wish to apply another capsule again or later.



I have some photos taken recently when I applied Frontline to my 2 dogs. We found a tick in the crate the following day, as shown in the photo. This definitely proved that the Frontline is working effectively.


I remove it and placed it on the paper towel to take a photo before I killed it, just to be sure.


If you are staying in a country with 4 seasons, there is a chart where advises you on the treatment you may want to consider for spring, summer,autumn and winter; as indicated below.











Hi,

I am assuming that you just found one or two ticks on your dog and not a big infestation on its body.


Well, you can pull the ticks off by using your hand but I prefer to use a tissue and my live-in housekeeper prefers to put a small plastic bag over her hand, using it like a glove, and then pull the tick off the dog. If you do it right, you should be able to put the tick in a container or kitchen paper towel, as shown in the photo.


I kill it by folding it up and then hit it with my slipper and you will see the blood splatter on the paper towel. I have heard of people pouring alcohol over the ticks in the container.


BTW, if you are not sure if it is a flea or tick, please do not do anything but consult a friend or your vet.


Here is a true story that I extracted from a dog book…..


An Englishwoman visited a vet’s clininc with her German Shepherd dog bleeding heavily from its underbelly. Terribly upset, she told the vet that she pulled a tick off the dog and it just could not stop bleeding after that, and that it hurt the dog badly when she pulled it off. The vet took a look and found it hard to believe what he saw. He told the horrified owner that she has just pulled one of her dog’s nipples right off… !!! Ouch… ouch… ouch….!!!


Yes, the dog book claim that it is a true incident so no kidding… The poor dog got stitched up and recovered but can you imagine your nipple being pulled off….???


Regards


David


2013年9月13日星期五

Product Review: Fragrance-Free Dog Shampoo Bars

As a service dog partner with multiple chemical sensitivity (MCS), I’ve gone through a lot of trial and error in finding a shampoo that I tolerate that also works well for my dogs. This is especially important because whenever I went anywhere, my service dog would go with me, and when we came home, we’d both need to bathe to get fragrance residues off our hair and skin.


The Bad Old Days


The only “all-natural” dog shampoo I found that was supposed to be safe for people with MCS (I bought it from a mail-order business that caters to people with MCS) turned out to be made up of numerous essential oils and reeked to high heaven. Even friends without MCS said it was like a perfume bomb. I can’t imagine someone with MCS using it safely.


I turned to the only other option I could think of — a gentle, fragrance-free human shampoo. This worked okay with Jersey. But when Gadget came along, I discovered that over time the shampoo dried out his coat, stimulating his body to secrete more oils to protect his skin. This led to a dog who had a dry AND oily coat, which caused him to smell very “doggy.” Eventually, I tried mixing fragrance-free human conditioner and shampoo, and that seemed to do the trick: his coat became softer and the oily secretions went away.


Even though these products were better than the toxic and/or fragranced dog shampoos on the market, I wondered how healthy it was for them to eat so much of it (because I gave out a lot of treats to make baths fun, so a lot of snorking treats out of the bath water took place). And sometimes my dogs have not liked the feel or smell of the products.


A Potential New Solution!


Then, a couple of months ago, I learned of fragrance-free dog shampoo bars made by a person with MCS! Barbara’s online store, Baltimore Soaps and More, sells four kinds of dog shampoo bars.



A line of 14 blocks of soap in a variety of colors.

Baltimore soaps and shampoo bars



Barbara was kind enough to send me samples of three of these (she’s out of stock of the fourth, see below), and I tried them out on Barnum.


They were





The first time I used one was to clean Barnum’s beard. Bouvier beards are nasty things. In fact, the Dutch nickname for Bouviers des Flandres is “Vuilbaard” which means “vile beard” or “dirty beard.” I used to use unscented baby wipes to try to clean his beard, but they didn’t work very well, and Barnum was uncooperative because he hated the smell.


The First Test: The Beard


So, to test out the new shampoo bars, I first let Barnum decide which soap he liked best. I held each one up to his nose, one at a time. The goat’s milk one was of no interest — he didn’t move away, but he didn’t move toward it. The oats and honey he moved toward a bit. But the shea butter one he sniffed it, then he moved in to sniff it again, and licked his lips. The clear winner! (Later, when I retested the soaps, he tried to gently take a bite of the shea butter soap.)




Sadie’s Choice Shampoo Bars



I discovered what worked best was to lather a rag or wash cloth with a bit of the soap and then massage it into his beard, and then once the nastiness had been removed, to rinse the rag free of soap to rinse his beard with. Barnum seemed comfortable and held still for all this, which he usually does not do when I go tugging at and mutchering his beard. The fact that he liked the smell seemed to make a big difference to him. Afterward, his kisses smelled much sweeter (without all that rotten food in his beard)!


The Real Test: The Bath!


I’ve cleaned his beard with Sadie’s Choice a couple of times since then, but the real test was for the total bath, which we did a few weeks ago.


Betsy helps me bathe Barnum. I wasn’t sure how the shampoo bar would go over with her since we’ve always used liquid shampoo before.


We wetted Barnum down with the shower sprayer as usual, and then she started rubbing the bar all over him. After a minute of lathering, Betsy said, “I like this soap much better than the shampoo.”


“Really?” I said. “Why?”


“With this you can hit the spots you need to hit with it,” she gestured to his hindquarters and tail, which she was soaping up. “I always felt like we were using more than we needed with the shampoo. We had to use so much. This is not as wasteful.”


I will add my own observations about the shampoo:


It had a pleasant smell, by which I means practically no smell, but what there was smelled clean and pleasant and not fragrance-y or chemical-y. Even fragrance-free shampoo has more of a smell than this did, to me.


Barnum seemed to like the smell and feel of it better, so he was very happy and cooperative (although the hot dog slices were a major factor, too).


It rinsed off much faster and easier than any other soap/shampoo/conditioner I’ve used on a dog before. It rinsed very clean and easy. I had not expected that.


In the time since that bath, Barnum’s coat has stayed in good condition. It didn’t get oily or smelly like used to happen when I used people shampoo, and it also is not dried out. It is crisp and soft, without a doggy smell, the way a bouv coat should be.


We give Baltimore Soaps and More doggy shampoo bars four paws up!



Barnum inside his crate, lying in

Four Paws UP!



The Interview: Barbara, the Soap Maker


To round off this review, I thought it would be fun to interview Barbara about her soap-making business, her dog shampoo bars, what it’s like to run a small business when you live with MCS, and her life with dogs. Here it is!


Sharon: What gave you the idea to start a soap business? And how do you actually make these soaps and shampoo bars?


Barbara: I have always been a fan of wonderful bath soaps and looked forward to the thrill of opening a new bar. After being chemically injured in 2005 and developing multiple chemical sensitivity (MCS), I quickly realized that my soap options were very limited and it made me a little depressed. I decided to start making my own soaps so that I wouldn’t be stuck with the same boring bars all of the time and figured that there must be other people out there who felt the same way I did!


Sharon: Why do you make soaps and shampoos without fragrances, essential oils, or chemicals?


Barbara: Fragrance oils are bad news for all involved since they are known endocrine disruptors, and the manufacturers aren’t required to disclose ingredients. Tell everyone you know to avoid them! Although some people with MCS tolerate essential oils, if I used them in some of my soap batches, other batches would be cross contaminated due to residue left behind in the molds plus contamination from my hands and contamination during curing and storage. I’ve had soap-making supplies shipped to me where the entire package was fragrance contaminated and unusable so I recommend that people who have sensitivities only purchase soap from a seller who doesn’t use fragrances of any kind in their business or in their home.


Soap is a chemical reaction between fats/oils and lye (sodium hydroxide) that has been dissolved in water. Once the reaction takes place you are left with true soap (as opposed synthetic detergent bars like Dove or Irish Spring) and the lye is used up. Other than lye, no other chemicals are needed for soap making. I tell people that if you are purchasing soap and notice ingredients that aren’t something you would find in your kitchen then don’t buy it because it isn’t a truly natural product. On the same note, avoid buying soap from anyone who doesn’t fully disclose the ingredients on the label.


Sharon: Who is Sadie (of Sadie’s Choice) and why did you name a shampoo after her?


Barbara: I know we aren’t supposed to pick favorites amongst our furry friends but Sadie was THE BEST DOG EVER! Our family rescued her from a shelter four hours away from our home when she was already probably 12 years old, never spayed, infested with fleas, arthritic and had a lump growing on her leg that the shelter staff feared was cancer. I talk about Sadie on my website.


Sharon: Why do you choose the ingredients you do (honey, shea butter, goat’s milk) for dog shampoo?


Barbara: It seems like so many dogs are plagued with skin irritations and so my first goal was to make dog shampoo that didn’t contribute to the problem due to added fragrances. I have made four varieties of dog shampoo bars so far and three of them each have an ingredient known for being soothing for the skin – honey/oats, shea butter, and goat’s milk. I also make a coffee shampoo for dogs because coffee in soap is a natural deodorizer and our current dog had such a funk from her time as a stray that the other bars weren’t enough to remove the odor. The Doggie Deodorizer bar has been very popular which is why I’m currently out of stock! I’m also considering making a dog shampoo with tomato juice for… you guessed it…skunk encounters!


Sharon: I had never heard of dog shampoo bars before I came across your site. Why bars instead of liquids?


Barbara: The eco reasons for shampoo bars include that you aren’t paying for a product that is mostly water and you don’t have any plastic bottle waste. Also, I have found that shampoo bars do a better job of breaking through the oils on the dog’s coat in order to get that first lather going. Simply wet your dog and rub the bar across his/her coat and you will quickly develop a rich, shampoo like lather.


Sharon: What’s it like to run a business when you have MCS?


Barbara: Being a business owner with MCS means that, like with the rest of my life, I spend a lot of time making special requests of people such as not to handle my soap-making supply orders with fragrance on their hands and not to place my vendor spot near anyone selling scented products or running generators or cooking food on grills or gas-powered appliances. I also make all of my business decisions based on my own needs and that of my MCS customers which includes using brown kraft paper with black ink for labels and using mostly brown craft paper and shreds for packaging when shipping orders.


Sharon: Since you make dog shampoo, I’m assuming you have dogs! Can you tell me about them?


Barbara: Our family likes to rescue senior dogs and so we have a fairly high turnover rate. Our current companion is a Jack Russell who lost her way three years ago during a blizzard and had four failed adoptions plus a night in doggie jail before we made her part of our family. We are used to lab mixes and so having a Jack Russell has been quite a change for us. Lucy is a better mouser than our cats!


Sharon: Do your dogs have a favorite shampoo bar? Or do you find that certain bars work better on certain types of coats or breeds?


Barbara: Lucy sleeps on our bed and so I like to bathe her once a month. I find that having a removable shower head on a long hose is a must. She doesn’t seem to have a preference – all of my soaps leave her coat clean, soft and smelling sweet and neutral.


Sharon: I read a mention of rescue dogs on your site. Are you involved in rescue?


Barbara: Since I’m raising two sons my rescue work has been limited to adopting carefully selected dogs who needed homes. Someday I picture myself fostering dogs that need rehabilitation before they can be placed for adoption.


Sharon: I read on your site that you lost two dogs to cancer. Has that experience affected your business or other parts of your life?


Barbara: Our family has lost three dogs to cancer in the past 12 years. When we adopted Sadie, some of our friends and even the workers at the shelter asked us why we would put our older son (our second son hadn’t been born yet) through possibly losing a dog soon after adoption? In our minds, we felt that showing him that a dog deserves a good home no matter how few days she may have left was an important lesson in compassion. Sadie ended up living for two years and four months after her placement with us. She was a joy for each day we had her as part of our family.


Sharon: Can people use your dog shampoo bars? I’m kind of tempted to try out that honey and oats one on myself, just for fun! Is there any reason I shouldn’t?


Barbara: Sure you can, and I won’t tell anyone! My dog shampoo bars are made of the same type of ingredients as my human bars. I would recommend trying it out BEFORE it gets covered in dog hair though.


Sharon: Do people ever ask you for dog shampoos that contain flea or tick chemicals? If so, what do you tell them?


Barbara: No one has so far. At vendor events I have a banner above my booth that reads, “Perfume Free Natural Soap” and I tell everyone who approaches that I don’t use any perfumes, dyes, or essential oils in my bars. I have, however, had numerous people ask, “But then what do you SCENT them with?”



Two bars of soap that look like slices of chocolate orange cake: a half-orange slice on top of a white frosting-looking layer on top of an orange layer between two dark chocolate-colored layers.

Chocolate Orange Soap



Sharon: Do you have some sort of culinary background? Many soaps look good enough to eat. (It makes me hungry to look at them. I have to keep reminding myself that these are not food, they are soap. Which makes me similar to my second service dog, Gadget, who was fond of eating bars of olive oil soap.)


Barbara: Thanks for the compliment. I am an experienced cook and find a lot of inspiration for my soaps from the food world.


Sharon: Anything else you’d like to add?


Barbara: Make sure you store your natural soaps in a well draining soap dish and not in the path of the shower spray in order to prolong their life. Also, one thing folks may not know is that due to curing time it takes at least a month to make each bar of soap.


Sharon: Thank you for your time!


- Sharon, the muse of Gadget (who liked to eat soap, even if it didn’t look like food!), and Barnum, relatively clean SD/SDiT